Beginner Trad Leads


Original Post
dhatstat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Anyone have suggestions about good easy trad climbs to practice placing gear and jamming? I've done Whale's Tail in Eldo and i am just looking for more variety and its hard to sort through all of the easy stuff (Sorting the run out stuff from the more protect-able stuff). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I am also ok with mixed trad sport routes. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Adam Block · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 48

Turkey Perch has slabby splitters

vedauwoo has great easy climbs too

Mike Storeim · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Sep 2002 · Points: 10

Since you mention Eldo - Breezy, Recon and Boulder Direct on the Wind Tower fit that bill.

Mike Slavens · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 35

+1 for Turkey Perch.  You will not find cracks with excellent jamming that are easier to protect in the 5.6 to 5.7 range.

Taketaketaketaketake ....take · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 34

Check out Elevenmile Canyon if you get a chance. plenty of good quality chill trad routes on turret dome and elevenmile dome, and arch rock has a few as well. A couple of my favorites there are Moby Grape (great beginner trad climb, 5.7) and Mighty Joe Young (might wait til you feel pretty good leading 5.7 trad and have at least a #4 bd camalot or similar in your rack, 5.8). Schooldaze, Jaws, and Guides Route are all super chill multi pitch routes on turret dome and all clock in at 5.6 or easier with an optional 5.7 finish that is a bit tricky but awesome. I think some of these you need to feel comfortable running it out pretty far on really easy slab however (maybe we just didn't bring enough big gear though, don't quite remember).

Turkey Perch is great. 

There's also a very easy and well-protected 5.8 at Radio Head in Devil's Head called great dihedral or something like that. If that goes well, might as well make the hike over to the headstone and hop on chickenhead to find out what you're really made of :)

If you ever find yourself in Garden of the Gods, New Era is the bomb-diggity, just need to get there when there's not a line. It also might feel hard for 5.7 at the crux if you don't know how to crack climb. Montezuma's Tower is also a great one there, tho it's not 'really' a trad route, just a terrifying/exciting 5.3 after the opening moves. Bring a 70 M rope for that one. If you do these and are looking for more to do in the springs, The Army Route in North Cheyenne Canyon is also a super good easy multipitch, although you have to tiptoe across some gravelly choss at one point and might have to deal with some dick-etry from the local guide companies.

North Table also has a few nice well-protected moderate trad routes, I'm failing to remember the names of any of them though. There was another 5.8 dihedral there at the brown clouds area that had some good jamming, a bit funky at the top if it's only your second trad climb though.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 25

Lot of long class 3/4 scrambles with short 5.easy cruxes.

dhatstat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks for all the replys. lots of good options!

David Kerkeslager · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 30

There are a lot of good easy trad routes in the Gunks if you're ever over on this coast.

Travis Provin · · Boulder CO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 40

There are a variety of moderate mixed routes at The Bihedrial Area in Boulder Canyon. The Sport Park, although people really hate on it, is a great place to practice gear as well. Everything there is bolted and can be set up on top rope but placing gear on top rope, mock aid climbing on top rope, or skipping every other bolt and placing gear is good practice while staying safe with bolts for backup. 

John Aiello · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 5
Taketaketaketaketake ....take wrote:

North Table also has a few nice well-protected moderate trad routes, I'm failing to remember the names of any of them though. There was another 5.8 dihedral there at the brown clouds area that had some good jamming, a bit funky at the top if it's only your second trad climb though.

I believe you're thinking of Big Dihedral. https://www.mountainproject.com/v/big-dihedral/105748178 Fun route, takes plenty of gear. And I agree that its a little weird towards the top

Jim Turner · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 90
Taketaketaketaketake ....take wrote:

There's also a very easy and well-protected 5.8 at Radio Head in Devil's Head called great dihedral or something like that.

Giant Dihedral.  It's a good one.
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/giant-dihedral/106859120

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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