Suggestions for Good Sport Crags in the White Mountain Area?


Original Post
Dany Tancou · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Hello everyone,

My wife and I are heading to this area at the end of the summer, for some hiking (hoping to bag Mt. Washington) and climbing, and was looking for suggestions for some good sport climbing in the area. We unfortunately don't trad (unlike many of you here, judging by all the posts I've been reading--cool! :) or at least not yet, and on this trip we can't afford any instruction, hence the title of this post. :)

We're most comfortable sport-leading in the 5.7-5.9 range (especially in places we haven't been before); that said, if the quality of the climbs is good, by which I mean properly-spaced bolts/hangers (4-5' max) and proper holds (for the grade, of course), we don't mind trying harder stuff. However, we'd be hesitant to go to a crag which only has higher-grade climbs (5.9 and above) because it could easily turn into a wasted day. Given the massive number of climbs in the White Mountain area though, I can't imagine that's the case. So where do you guys suggest we can go for a day or two or three of good, fun climbing? :)

Btw, I looked through the posts on here and the general consensus seems to be that the good guidebook for the area is out of print and very hard to find, the Rock Climbing New England book is not great, and there are no other guidebooks. Do I have it right? Please let me know if not--I totally don't mind buying the book. 

One last question: what is the general etiquette at the crags in the area for lowering vs. rappelling once the climber has completed a route? I hate to be "the guy" who lowers off when rapping is expected, but if this is not expected, I hate to waste everyone else's time by rapping. :)

Thanks so much!

Dany

P.S. We've been climbing for nearly five years now, and leading for three. In the gym, we can both lead up to 5.10d and top-rope up to 5.11b (just starting to push for higher now). We've sport-climbed outdoors in Ontario, Colorado, France and Austria; we don't claim to have TONS of experience, but we are are definitely not INexperienced.

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0
Dany Tancou wrote:

Hello everyone,

My wife and I are heading to this area at the end of the summer, for some hiking (hoping to bag Mt. Washington) and climbing, and was looking for suggestions for some good sport climbing in the area. We unfortunately don't trad (unlike many of you here, judging by all the posts I've been reading--cool! :) or at least not yet, and on this trip we can't afford any instruction, hence the title of this post. :)

We're most comfortable sport-leading in the 5.7-5.9 range (especially in places we haven't been before); that said, if the quality of the climbs is good, by which I mean properly-spaced bolts/hangers (4-5' max) and proper holds (for the grade, of course), we don't mind trying harder stuff. However, we'd be hesitant to go to a crag which only has higher-grade climbs (5.9 and above) because it could easily turn into a wasted day. Given the massive number of climbs in the White Mountain area though, I can't imagine that's the case. So where do you guys suggest we can go for a day or two or three of good, fun climbing? :)

Btw, I looked through the posts on here and the general consensus seems to be that the good guidebook for the area is out of print and very hard to find, the Rock Climbing New England book is not great, and there are no other guidebooks. Do I have it right? Please let me know if not--I totally don't mind buying the book. 

One last question: what is the general etiquette at the crags in the area for lowering vs. rappelling once the climber has completed a route? I hate to be "the guy" who lowers off when rapping is expected, but if this is not expected, I hate to waste everyone else's time by rapping. :)

Thanks so much!

Dany

P.S. We've been climbing for nearly five years now, and leading for three. In the gym, we can both lead up to 5.10d and top-rope up to 5.11b (just starting to push for higher now). We've sport-climbed outdoors in Ontario, Colorado, France and Austria; we don't claim to have TONS of experience, but we are are definitely not INexperienced.

Rumney

Chris Blatchley · · Medford, MA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

rumney. tons of great crags to choose from at your level. I climb about the same and there's more than enough there and some are really amazing climbs.


The ethic is to lower. there are quick clips at the top of just about everything there.

B L · · Montréal, Québec · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 280

Rumney has high quality sport climbing with over 500 routes (in out of print guidebook). I believe that number shall increase to 700 routes in the new guidebook that should be out anytime taking into account development since 2009. The grades go from 5.2-5.14 with good routes in pretty much every grade. The type of rock is schist and it possesses unique and aesthetic features. The bolting is very well done in my opinion, not too spaced out and cruxes are usually well protected. The routes are so varied, easy to find and the different areas are so close to each other that a wasted day would be impossible in the scenario you outlined.

The new guidebook is at the printing press at the moment. The old one (2009) is selling for several hundreds of dollars on amazon. The info here on mp is very accurate and complete.

There are some sport climbs around North Conway but none match the variety and quantity found at Rumney.

Christopher Woodall · · Somerville, MA · Joined May 2015 · Points: 138

I would recommend Rumney! If you want something else/more adventerous, there are a few sport routes at Humphrey's Ledge (https://www.mountainproject.com/v/humphreys-ledge/107856255), North Bald Cap (https://www.mountainproject.com/v/e_lost-boys-area/112003972) and Mt. Forist (https://www.mountainproject.com/v/111983873?search=1&type=area&method=resultsPage&query=Mt.%20Forist) in your range. The quantity is certainly lower, and I have not climbed many of them, so would be a little careful of the possibility of slightly larger than usual runouts for a sport climb.

I would just go to Rumney though, the sport climbing there is classic and if you can go during the weekdays the crowds wont be that bad.

Dany Tancou · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Thank you so very much to everyone who answered! Very, VERY much appreciated! This gives me enough info to start researching the actual climbs we want to aim for, consolation climbs, etc. It's great to know that the info we'll require is all on here (which reminds me, I have to download the NH area for the app on my phone!) but all the same, I hope that the book will be in the local climbing shops by the time we get there. (I like and very much appreciate guidebooks, and will always buy them when I can.)

I realize now that I forgot to ask yesterday: how are the climbs marked--names or numbers along the bottom? Or are they not marked at all and it's a question of figuring out what's what from the topo and/or description?

Thanks again you guys!

Dany

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,740

Dany, I have an extra copy of the previous book I can sell you.  And no, there's nothing marked on the rocks to tell you what route is which.  That's where careful reading of the book comes in.

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

"careful reading of the book" or asking some of the 1/2 million you will be sharing the crag with.

peterfogg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0
Alan Rubin wrote:

"careful reading of the book" or asking some of the 1/2 million you will be sharing the crag with.

Exactly. Especially if you're heading to the Meadows or Parking Lot (and you'll want to as a 5.7-5.9 party) you'll have hordes of people willing to point you in the right direction.

june m · · elmore ,vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 43

If you dont  want the crowds at rumney, humphries has some nice sport  climbs.  Mt florist  is fun, with a few multi  pitch, but it is slab. 

edward pinskey · · bethlehem NH · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 480

kinsman notch is sweet. You will find a bit of adventure and no people.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply