Epinephrine in August


Original Post
Julian Prieto · · England · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

I'm hoping to climb Epinephrine in August (will be in Vegas for a work trip) and after advice on how much of the route above the chimneys will be in the sun. I know how hot it gets in summer but I've successfully climbed in August the last 2 years by staying in the shade and doing any long approaches very early (and take loads of water!)...we've been able to climb some great routes like Crimson Chrysalis, Dark Shadows and Frogland without a single other person around.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Julian Prieto wrote:

I'm hoping to climb Epinephrine in August (will be in Vegas for a work trip) and after advice on how much of the route above the chimneys will be in the sun. I know how hot it gets in summer but I've successfully climbed in August the last 2 years by staying in the shade and doing any long approaches very early (and take loads of water!)...we've been able to climb some great routes like Crimson Chrysalis, Dark Shadows and Frogland without a single other person around.

Is there a question in here?

Glass Tupperware · · Freiburg im Breisgau · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 50

You should just climb it at night. Full moon will be on August 7th

But bring a tagline in case you need to bail

Julian Prieto · · England · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0
FrankPS wrote:

Is there a question in here?

Yes, my question is how much of Epinephrine above the chimneys will be in the sun in August? And also am I mad for trying it in the height of summer?

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an... · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

I did it In July. Sounds crazy but start late

We met at noon and started hiking at 1 we topped out at 7 or so. 

I brought 5 liters I had 1 left over. We brought a 70m for linking pitches. 

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 289

if I recall correctly the upper pitches were in the sun early and went into shade in the afternoon. we finished the chimneys too early and baked in the sun for the next pitches before we got some shade. and then the descent was also super hot and in the sun. this was late spring but probably still applies... starting late per rob's suggestion seems like it may be a reasonable solution.

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 8,398
Rob Warden...Space Lizard wrote:

I did it In July. Sounds crazy but start late

We met at noon and started hiking at 1 we topped out at 7 or so. 

I brought 5 liters I had 1 left over. We brought a 70m for linking pitches. 

This. If you start hiking at noon, the first pitch will have just gone into the shade, the chimneys are always shaded, and by the time you get to the top of the Black Tower, the upper corner system will also be in the shade. If you time it right you will do the descent as the sun is setting or already set.

IMO, it is doable this way, but unless you have a breeze or are tolerant of the heat, it is unpleasant.

Julian Prieto · · England · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks for all the advice. I suspect we'll be a little slow on the chimneys (not being used to that style of climbing) so we may want to start a bit earlier. I'd rather not get benighted on the route or the summit if possible! What sort of time in the afternoon will the upper pitches go into shade?

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 8,398
Julian Prieto wrote:

Thanks for all the advice. I suspect we'll be a little slow on the chimneys (not being used to that style of climbing) so we may want to start a bit earlier. I'd rather not get benighted on the route or the summit if possible! What sort of time in the afternoon will the upper pitches go into shade?

Approximately 1-2 PM this time of year. You can always hang out at the top of the Black Tower waiting for them to go in the shade, but the rock will radiate heat (shoe-rubber-melting, soul-destroying heat) for quite some time. The real problem with starting early is that the first pitch (two pitches) will still be in the sun - but you are correct, you'll have the route to yourselves - probably for good reason.

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 289

if you're worried you might go slow/epic then maybe a summer ascent is not the best idea

nah who am i to naysay. go for it

CamBrown · · Clackamas · Joined May 2015 · Points: 50

Bring plenty of water and you should be fine. I have a friend who climbed in August and his only regret was he only brought one liter of water. Bring plenty of water and you should be fine. The chimneys slow most parties down. The climbing above the chimneys is straight forward, not dependent on friction and fairly easy IMO. Enjoy!

Walter Galli · · Sint Maarten · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,956

Bring eggs so you can cook them on the rocks.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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