Shockley's Ceiling Shawangunks I was rescued like a princesse.


Original Post
Leman Akpinar · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

I was rescued like a princess on Saturday the 22nd of July by Kirin Y. and his anonymous partner. Attempting to pull the roof on the 3rd pitch, as I was following. Where is that jug?? I fell into a blind spot away from the wall and where my partner couldn't hear my voice screaming lower me! 

However, Kirin and his partner heard me and didn't give up on us regardless the rain that rain started pouring as I was hanging by what started feeling like a thread after 40 mins of sitting on my harness.

I am forever grateful to these two strangers who went on full hero on us!!

I shall return this favor as I grow up to be a more experienced climber, they have built such delicious gear anchors and took other risk managements I have never seen. I want to climb like that!! This experience really pushed me to want to become the person that I can count on, on the mountains. 

Namaste.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

This seems to happen a lot on that climb...glad you're ok!  My advice: learn some self rescue, especially how to ascend a rope.  What would you have done if they hadn't been there?  Also, communication issues are legendary at the Gunks.  Some people like to use nonverbal communication systems via rope tugs, which might be worth experimenting.

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5

Rope tugs aren't going to help you communicate with a weighted rope. 

The simplest and safest solution to this situation is to ascend the rope. This really should be a minimum required skill before climbing anything overhanging with this type of hanging in space after a fall potential. It's great that someone nearby was able to help you out, and I'm glad you're all ok! But they really shouldn't have needed to rescue you. We all need help sometimes when unexpected accidents happen, but "I might fall following this climb" is not really an unforeseeable possibility and you should be prepared for it before beginning your next climb. 

Not trying to be harsh, I think you've already learned your lesson here - but for others reading this. Know how to ascend the rope before climbing something seriously overhanging, like many Gunks climbs! 

Alicia Sokolowski · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,045
Ted Pinson wrote:

This seems to happen a lot on that climb...glad you're ok!  My advice: learn some self rescue, especially how to ascend a rope.  What would you have done if they hadn't been there?  Also, communication issues are legendary at the Gunks.  Some people like to use nonverbal communication systems via rope tugs, which might be worth experimenting.

Rope tugs wouldn't really work if the climber was weighting the rope (as was the case here).  Definitely learn to prusik your way up.  It's a valuable skill.

ETA: Em Cos types faster than I do :)

wonderwoman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 84

Real princesses know how to prusik.

Glad you learned from something from your experience.  Time to practice some new skills before you get in over your head again.  You are really lucky that there were other folks around.  You cannot always count on being bailed out.

Leman Akpinar · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0
Em Cos wrote:

Rope tugs aren't going to help you communicate with a weighted rope. 

The simplest and safest solution to this situation is to ascend the rope. This really should be a minimum required skill before climbing anything overhanging with this type of hanging in space after a fall potential. It's great that someone nearby was able to help you out, and I'm glad you're all ok! But they really shouldn't have needed to rescue you. We all need help sometimes when unexpected accidents happen, but "I might fall following this climb" is not really an unforeseeable possibility and you should be prepared for it before beginning your next climb. 

Not trying to be harsh, I think you've already learned your lesson here - but for others reading this. Know how to ascend the rope before climbing something seriously overhanging, like many Gunks climbs! 

Yes, I totally agree with all you are saying, thank you for all the advice, lesson learned!! :)

Leman Akpinar · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0
wonderwoman wrote:

Real princesses know how to prusik.

Glad you learned from something from your experience.  Time to practice some new skills before you get in over your head again.  You are really lucky that there were other folks around.  You cannot always count on being bailed out.

Thank you Wonderwoman! Yes, I agree with all you say!!

JSH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 960

We heard you as we went down the Stairmaster ... on Shockley's, anyone -but- your partner can hear you just fine ;-)

FYI, Ranger Bob was waiting in his truck to make sure you got down ok.

Dana Bartlett · · CT · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 890

Place a piece above the roof and attach a long sling to it. The second can pull on the sling, stand in it, or attach another sling to the first one and use that for her/his foot. It's good to know how to prussik but this might be a bit quicker.

smurray47 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 25
Dana Bartlett wrote:

Place a piece above the roof and attach a long sling to it. The second can pull on the sling, stand in it, or attach another sling to the first one and use that for her/his foot. It's good to know how to prussik but this might be a bit quicker.

with rope stretch, this seems like it wouldn't be useful in almost any situation, unless they managed to get a big "take" before falling, right next to the piece. Even with a big take, rope stretch would likely take you out of range of the sling, even if it was a double length.

DEF · · Boston, MA · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 55

Can't put that just on the second.  The leader should be proficient (and you have plenty of rope from the top of the 3rd pitch) to lower themselves down to their partner, or at least far enough down to communicate.  If you're just sitting around at the anchor for 40 minutes with your seconds full weight on the rope then you have some additional skills to learn before taking a friend 300 feet off the ground.

edit: don't mean this to come off as harsh.  hard to know what you don't know, something many of us have found out the hard way - its a good thing people were around to help, and a good teaching moment for leader and partner to learn some new skills to help them out in the future.

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 472
Leman Akpinar wrote:

I fell into a blind spot away from the wall and where my partner couldn't hear my voice screaming lower me! 

Where was your partner belaying from? The top of the cliff or just below the big overhang (recommended) ? If just below the big overhang it's easier to see and hear and it's fairly trivial to drop a loop of rope to assist your second.

Any case, glad you're safe and will - no doubt - learn how to Prusik

Alec Orenstein · · Gallup, NM · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

This is almost 100% on the leader.  When climbing with a follower who even *might* fall on that move, the leader should break the last pitch up into two pitches and belay just about the roof (in the corner) so communication is not an issue.  There's a reason my partner and I used to call Shockley's "The Divorcer"--your situation is not unique.

Chuck Parks · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 2,086

And now we shall read from the Grey Book of Dick, chapter 142, verse 5:

"PITCH 3: 5.6 G (V2, V3) Climb the ceiling (crux) to a stance, then up the corner to a good belay stance below the roof (highly recommended to belay here so you can see and HEAR your partners). (50 ft.)"

And the Dick was met with great joy by all the people of the land, for his words were wise and true.

Dana Bartlett · · CT · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 890
smurray47 wrote:

with rope stretch, this seems like it wouldn't be useful in almost any situation, unless they managed to get a big "take" before falling, right next to the piece. Even with a big take, rope stretch would likely take you out of range of the sling, even if it was a double length.

This technique assumes that the leader and second have anticipated the problem.

Dharma Bum · · Glen Haven, Co · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 585

Good thing you weren't' going for the naked ascent.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456
Chuck Parks wrote:

And now we shall read from the Grey Book of Dick, chapter 142, verse 5:

"PITCH 3: 5.6 G (V2, V3) Climb the ceiling (crux) to a stance, then up the corner to a good belay stance below the roof (highly recommended to belay here so you can see and HEAR your partners). (50 ft.)"

And the Dick was met with great joy by all the people of the land, for his words were wise and true.

And all was well in the land of the Shawagunks for many years to come. But in times of prosperity, the wisdom of the great Dick slipped into the shadows and out of the minds of the people. 

Without the wisdom of old, many people meet great challenges and peril. Some were clever or lucky and were prepared and able to escape their perils but many did not have such good fortune. But now, a man of great virtue, Lord Kirin, has risen to the aid of less fortunate adventurers, and the great wisdom of old has been brought back from the shadow by the canals of the great web and into the minds of the common

Finally as is well in the great land of the Shawagunks and hopefully it will be for some time to come

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,740
Chuck Parks wrote:

And now we shall read from the Grey Book of Dick, chapter 142, verse 5:

"PITCH 3: 5.6 G (V2, V3) Climb the ceiling (crux) to a stance, then up the corner to a good belay stance below the roof (highly recommended to belay here so you can see and HEAR your partners). (50 ft.)"

And the Dick was met with great joy by all the people of the land, for his words were wise and true.

Nowadays, when it's clear that too many people never even look at the route photos in the book (I hear of folks getting off route by totally missing things like a 20 ft traverse), it wouldn't surprise me that a party starting up Shockley's would not have read that bit in the guidebook.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Gunkiemike wrote:

Nowadays, when it's clear that too many people never even look at the route photos in the book (I hear of folks getting off route by totally missing things like a 20 ft traverse), it wouldn't surprise me that a party starting up Shockley's would not have read that bit in the guidebook.

Read an actual guidebook? What is wrong with you? ;-)

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 6
Leman Akpinar wrote:

I was rescued like a princess on Saturday the 22nd of July by Kirin Y. and his anonymous partner. Attempting to pull the roof on the 3rd pitch, as I was following. Where is that jug?? I fell into a blind spot away from the wall and where my partner couldn't hear my voice screaming lower me! 

However, Kirin and his partner heard me and didn't give up on us regardless the rain that rain started pouring as I was hanging by what started feeling like a thread after 40 mins of sitting on my harness.

40 minutes is an awful long time to just leave your partner on a weighted rope.  Why did the leader not lower or attempt some other rescue before that point?  Even 5 minutes of a continuously weighted & not-moving rope is a pretty clear sign that SOMETHING has gone wrong.

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 217

Leman, it was classy of you to thank your rescuers on this site and thereby invite the flaming that you had to know was coming. Good for you.

And yeah, you should learn to prussik, and your leader should have been more on top of things, but most of us have been in similar situations and you now get to learn from it and move on. Not a huge deal. Have fun out there.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply