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Gear for summer mountaineering trip to 11453ft traversing over glacier (edited as originally I mistakenly put 13,000ft)

Original Post
Mark Pauline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

Finally made the plunge and booked a guided climb to Mount Athabasca in the Canadian Rockies.  I have done a great deal of hiking over the years and have lots of gear however was wondering what people suggest for three layers of clothing and also gloves to use given that we will be plunging an ice axe for many hours.  I was thinking of Arcteryx Gamma LT soft shell or Patagonia Levitation hoody , Patagonia Nano Air for mid or MEC uplink jacket, and then MEC merino LT1 Zip for base.  I have no idea about what type of gloves to buy.  Will be starting the climb at 3 am and it will likely be -1C or 32F we start out.  Will be using Mountain Hardware Chockstone pants with capilene longjohns or Prana Zion with capilene.  Sorry for such a noob question.

Idaho Bob · · McCall, ID · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 757

Suggest you consider a light hardshell, for use as windbreaker and in the event of rain/snow.  Doubt that you'll need longjohns, they'll just make you sweat. You'll need 2 pairs of gloves, one light, one heavy with leather palms.  Footweat will be very important.  Your guide should have recommendations.  If new footwear, make sure it's well broken in before the climb to avoid blisters.  Good luck, have fun.  Athabasca is fun.  Are you going with Yamnuska?

Matt Z · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 161

I like using Kinkos and plumber's gloves. You can buy both at a hardware store for about $20-30 total. Make sure to put at least one if not two layers of sno-seal on the Kinkos. For plumber's gloves I like the super lightweight stretchy ones, sometimes the "gorilla grip" brand, but they're all pretty similar. If it's a big day I might carry a third set of nicer warm gloves or mittens that stay in my pack to stay dry and only come out at breaks.

Another thing to consider if you're going to be plunging an ice axe for hours is wrapping the head with ensolite foam. It's more comfortable to carry and insulates your hand from the snow.

Mark Pauline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0
Skye Swoboda-Colberg wrote:

Whatever attire you choose to purchase for your trip, be sure to test it out before you take it to the Canadian Rockies. If you have lots of gear, why not use what you are familiar with? You won't be as bummed when it gets torn to pieces and there is less of a chance of bringing incompatible items because you already know the drill. I've never been, but I can tell you right now you are going to be sweating your balls off in 32F conditions if you're wearing all that, especially plunging that axe all the way to the top. That being said you are going up to 13000 feet. Seems like you want to blow a lot of cash on stuff you may not need, so I suspect you come from a warm climate and have never been above 10,000 feet. Would you care to elaborate on what/where you developed your hiking experience? I don't mean to offend, I'm just trying to get a sense of where you're coming from.

The only gear I don't have is the gloves and a soft shell jacket.   I have a Gortex hard shell but figured that I would just sweat like a dog and I only ever wear it when it starts to rain or as a wind break.  The gloves I currently have will get wet as they are for snow boarding.  I only asked about the zip base layer because I read that it will help with venting.  I definitely don't want to spend a bunch of money on gear.  I have everything else from years of hiking, mountain biking and snow boarding.  I actually live in Alberta.  I have spent a lot of time hiking in Alberta, Arizona and Utah including in Jasper and Waterton Lakes National Park..elevation gain on hikes up to 700-1200m or 2300-4000 feet.  But it is true I have never been over 10,000 feet nor have I done a 1500m (4900 ft) push to a summit. I have rented La Sportiva Nepal Evo's from Mountain Equipment Coop (MEC).

Kevin Zagorda · · Glen Haven, Co · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 600

Climbing to 13,000 feet on Athabasca is quite an achievement considering it is less than 11,500 ft.  Ask you guide service what to wear, that's what you pay them for.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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