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Gear for anchoring?


Original Post
Daniel Vega · · Gardena, CA · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

I was wondering what average

size rope length and diameter is recommended for a good tope rope anchoring ?

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 200

Find someone who is retiring an old climbing rope.   I cut up my old ropes and use them for anchors.  They will last for years as TR anchors.  

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 20

8mm accessory cord will work well for the job. 

Daniel Vega · · Gardena, CA · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

how long are the pieces of rope after cutting?

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 20

The length is dependent on the length needed...  If you've never set up a top rope anchor please get someone that knows how to do it to walk you through the finer points of doing it safely. 

Alejandro Monroy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

Personally I use a 60ft tubular webbing or a static rope w/ a 10 mm diameter. Always ask for help and research on anchor building. Be safe CLIMB ON!!!!

IcePick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 100

Incorporate some form of redundancy if possible since it will be the only anchor.

Mike wand · · San Marcos · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 25

When I take the family out to do some top ropeing I take 100 feet of 10 mm static to build my anchors. I know it is a lot of rope to work with but i can use it other ways. I like to use the left over rope from the anchor and tie it to the master point and rap down and take pictures of the kiddos  mid pitch.  Have fun and be safe. Also get someone experienced to help you. 

tobashiya · · detroit, michigan · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 15

I was always taught to never use dynamic for anchor building...

SRENE all the way

Daniel Vega · · Gardena, CA · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

Im hoping three 25ft static ropes with an equalizer and some carabiners of course will be sufficient 

Im pretty sure there is going to be more experienced climbers there at the spot 

and I won't hesitate to ask for help or at least supervision 

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,745
tobashiya wrote:

I was always taught to never use dynamic for anchor building...

SRENE all the way

There's no reason not to use a length of dynamic rope for anchor.  Just be aware that it will stretch, and take proper precautions to deal with that.  In other words, you were taught wrong.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 200
tobashiya wrote:

I was always taught to never use dynamic for anchor building...

SRENE all the way

Nothing wrong with using dynamic.  Tossing an old rope is a waste, put it to good use. 

T Bloodstone · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 75

Im hoping three 25ft static ropes with an equalizer and some carabiners of course will be sufficient 

Hey Daniel Vega, don't get three separate pieces of static rope, it's difficult to equalize if you're a beginner, and not versatile. Get one long  piece, 8mm or 9mm, about 60 feet, or longer, depending on where you're climbing. But basically, the longer it is the more versatile it is, you can use it any where. My favorite rope for anchor is a 60meter 9mm static. I carry this one with me everywhere I go especially to new areas that I've never been to. 

   

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

The short answer is: it depends.  What kind of setup are you doing?  How are you building your anchors?  Are you using gear or natural pro?  How far from the cliff will your placements be?  The answer could be as short as 20' for a cordellette or as long as 100'+ for trees that are further from the cliff.  Get quality instruction on building anchors and you'll know what gear you'll need.

Old lady H · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 290
Ted Pinson wrote:

The short answer is: it depends.  What kind of setup are you doing?  How are you building your anchors?  Are you using gear or natural pro?  How far from the cliff will your placements be?  The answer could be as short as 20' for a cordellette or as long as 100'+ for trees that are further from the cliff.  Get quality instruction on building anchors and you'll know what gear you'll need.

Not speaking to the OP, exactly, but down the road, the long answers are fun too!

"It depends" is true so often.

One of my first climbing excursions was with my SAR son, who is trained for serious badass rigging for rescue work. Our task? Building a top rope anchor, yeah, but mostly off of sagebrush, some of it quite aways from the cliff. Knowing what was bomber, how to back up with other "pieces", keeping the angles in mind, all of that, was pretty fun.

The gear? All the usual stuff, plus a full size pack of big webbing.

Another top rope anchor on a different trip? The Toyota Tacoma, lol!

When the opportunity comes up to learn something new, grab it. It's often pretty fun.

Best, OLH

John The Wolf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 50
tobashiya wrote:

I was always taught to never use dynamic for anchor building...

SRENE all the way

And did you ask the reason why?

Walter Galli · · Sint Maarten · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,956

You got to know where the anchor will be, on a three or on a rock? Very important point.

Walter Galli · · Sint Maarten · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,956

It does not matter if is a static rope or a dinamic, you are doing  top rope, so no big long falls, I use all the time a dinamic on top rope..

Peter T · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 10

I use 100ft of 10mm static rope for top rope anchors. I hardly ever need that much but it's good to have and can build an anchor even if trees or boulders are far from edge. I recommend using the thick rope since it will be running over edges and you won't have to worry about abrasion as much as if you were using thinner rope. 

Jaren Watson · · Boise, Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 1,205

I'd be curious to hear the argument why using dynamic rope in a top rope setup is to be avoided. I've used both static and dynamic and haven't noticed much difference.

I'm sure there's a scenario I'm not familiar with where a dynamic rope would be a bad idea, but I can't think of one. But my experience toproping is admittedly limited as everywhere I've climbed is conducive to leading.

Old lady H · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 290
Jaren Watson wrote:

I'd be curious to hear the argument why using dynamic rope in a top rope setup is to be avoided. I've used both static and dynamic and haven't noticed much difference.

I'm sure there's a scenario I'm not familiar with where a dynamic rope would be a bad idea, but I can't think of one. But my experience toproping is admittedly limited as everywhere I've climbed is conducive to leading.

Jaren, the significant difference being rope stretch, just picture using one rope and several smaller parts when rigging an anchor from above. With different leg lengths, it could be awkward to even it out. Probably not a problem anyway, just a possibility.

With a lot of rope out, you could also end up with a master point farther down than desired.

Perhaps repeated rope stretch could be an issue with a gang bang top rope, and the rope rubbing over an edge?

These are just what come to mind as possibilities related to rope stretch. All or none, may be true, it is just a thought process to come up with what ifs.

Those who know me on here are familiar with this!

Best, Helen

EDIT to add: since an older rope would most likely be used, the rope stretch might not even be there anymore, or, enough to worry about. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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