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Partner needed for alpine climbing in the Fann Mountains, Tajikistan

Original Post
edelweiss · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0


I am looking for a partner to climb in the Fann Mountains. I will be in Dushanbe Aug 10-25th, 2017 and want to do a couple of alpine climbs. My first thought was Chimtarga, possibly in a day from Mutnye Lakes, but open to other suggestions. This is my first time in Tajikistan, so not very familiar with the region. But I am fluent in Russian, so that will help. I have gear and mountaineering experience and like to move light and fast without compromising safety. Let me know if you happen to be in the region at that time and we can talk more.


boogiecha · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 0

Hi Edelweiss,

Mutny is a good BC spot for most of the peaks around. You can do Chimtarga from Mutny but most likely difficult in a day time. The normal route starts from the Zindon valley, which requires 700meters gain and descent over the pass from Mutny . There are also rock routes starting near or directly form the Chimtarga Pass. In any case you will need a partner for the rock routes unless you solo 5.10.

Acclimatize on peak Energia, easily done in a day from Mutny. Or at Zamok, day trip easily possible.

I can send you more info for the Fanns (routes, maybe topos if I find them on my HD). If you further want to get in touch with local dudes let me know.

Are yu planning to stay longer in Tajikistan, any plans for the Pamirs? Another good spot for rock climbing are the Zamin Karror Wal at the Yagno valley (Yagnobska Stena) or shorter routes along the Varzob valley near by Dushanbe.



edelweiss · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Hi Tomi,

Thanks for the info. Indeed, Energia is good training objective. But I really want to climb Chimtarga. Maybe from Zindon side, as you suggested. I am planning to spend about a week in the mountains. Not sure how much will be able to climb, it depends on weather, logistics and conditioning.

No plans for Pamir yet. Although I would love to climb a 6,000-er at some point there. 

Seems like you are quite familiar with the area. I am still doing research on the area and will pm you with some questions. 

Thanks again!


boogiecha · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 0

Feel free to email me, I might be delayed in replying as I"m heading into the mountains again for few days. I think I can say that I know Chimtarga as I have climbed it from almost each side (though missing few lines)

Zindon side is the normal route and will take you one full long day, whereas you will either descent in dark or camp on Mirali Pass (5000m).

As for logistics, if you are coming from Dushanbe u will be able to rent a jeep at the junction on the main road from Dushanbe after the tunnel (I think it is called Saratak???, have to check). The jeep will take you to the Alaudin Lake huts (few huts there, tajik basic kitchen and a helpful guy called Akram). You can walk but it is not nice and will take you maybe 2 days? No one walks up there... At the Alaudin lakes you can try to rent donkeys plus donkey driver to Mutny lake but not over to Zindon valley as the donkeys cant go. 

One week is possible but tight. Weather is usually very stable in August

edelweiss · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

A fun country to travel! Seems like you are quite familiar with the region. I just sent you a PM with more specific questions.

Thanks again!


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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