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Fixed Hardware Etiquette? and a question re: glue-in bolts

Luke Bertelsen · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 4,867

The ClimbTech tool is a huge pain in the ass to use, IMO.  Maybe I am using it wrong, but the small plastic keeper that holds the bolt in the tool never releases easily, and trying to get it off inevitably ends up rotating the bolt in the hole to a less than ideal angle.

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

Agreed, I find the wave bolt tool to be hard to remove once driving the bolt. 

J Achey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 155

Agreed, the tool is maybe a little too "secure" on the Wave. I'm used to it, and seem to have the technique down, but that's a valid criticism.

Jim Corbett · · Keene, NY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 10

I came late to this party and haven't waded through it all, mostly because when I drill (ground up by hand) I'm doing it to protect me and don't really care that much how long things last after I'm done. My main concern is not hitting the ground then. That said, early on it was said that exterior components don't really suffer from galvanic corrosion because the water dries. A number of years ago I finished a route on a NC cliff that had clearly been started some years previously--there was a high rusted bolt with a biner in it. When I got to it, it was clear that the hanger was about as substantial as cardboard due to corrosion, but the really interesting thing was that the biner had a wormhole deep into the metal where it contacted the hanger. Granted, aluminum on steel is the worst, but the best example of galvanic corrosion I've seen--on an exterior contact.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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