THE GUNKS, I need help.


Original Post
Peter Osorio · · fl · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Hello all,

I'm heading to the New York August 18 through the 25th. I'm from Florida, however I have placed quite a bit outdoors at this point and I am familiar with what a good placement is. But just because I know how to place gear doesn't mean trad doesn't slightly freak me out haha. I am looking for a NYC based climbing partner who knows the Gunks for at least 18th-20th. I'm not trying to go to the gunks by myself, I would like to avoid a car rental, and I would also like to avoid walking around aimlessly for days lol.

I have a pretty full rack, and plan on buying some Slings before my trip.

My gear list :

70m 9.7

2: full nut sets

.3-.4(2 sets)

.5-3(3 sets)

Gri gri

Atc guide

6: regular slings

3: 120s

5: lockers not including what's on my atcs

19: non lockers

(Every cam has its own non-locker)

5: quick draws

2: 21' coredelette

_______________________________________________

Reach out, I look forward to hearing from everyone!

Thanks,

Peter Osorio

(407)655-8108

Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,366

Maybe post this in the partner finding area of the forum?

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/105987244/eastern-and-southern-states-partners

Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,366

Fwiw, you might want microcams (aliens, c3, smaller x4, etc).  I like having them and do occasionally use them.  But they are not required if you're good at placing nuts (and opposing nuts).  Longer and numerous draws for some of the traverses are useful as well.  I think that's what you mean by 120s (?).  But your overall draw count might be on the lower side depending on which route you do.  

Most Gunks climbers carry about 10 alpine draws.  Fidgeting with slings while leading is annoying.  Being able to clip quickly is a huge plus.

You figure pitches can average 80 feet, 10 draws equals a piece every 8 feet.  Harder routes may require more gear with shorter distance between gear.

Russ Keane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 90

At the risk of sounding snide, what you seek is a paid guide.   Who will pick you up also.

Cor · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 930

You are missing the most crucial piece of the rack...   PinkTriCam!!!

Peter Osorio · · fl · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0
Russ Keane wrote:

At the risk of sounding snide, what you seek is a paid guide.   Who will pick you up also.

 I've been all over the United States and I've never had a problem finding a partner on Mountain project . Some people just aren't  interested in climbing with complete strangers, other people don't have the gear but know how to climb and use it as an opportunity. I'm willing to compensate with gas etc.

David Kerkeslager · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 30

I'd definitely bring some alpines. Yesterday in the Gunks I had 8 60cm alpines and 1 120cm alpine. I ran out by the end of a climb and had to pull non-lockers from my cams to build an anchor. It wasn't a disaster but it was annoying to have to fiddle around so much.

Happiegrrrl · · Gunks · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 0

You can take the bus up from NYC and get dropped at New Paltz. If you are coming up for day trips the 7am bus departing from Grand Central is the one to take, as it gets you to new Paltz by 9am.

https://trailwaysny.com/bus-from-new-paltz-to-new-york-city/


If you intend to come up for the weekend and camp starting, say, Thursday, I would be able to pick you up/drop off at bus station in NP, depending on timing(I work Friday, Saturday, Sunday so cannot pick up on those mornings).  Maybe we could coordinate - send me a message.

It is fairly easy to get a ride between New Platz and the cliffs on the fly. If you have that desire, post and we can explain further.  Peopl DO use taxi service, but it is like $20 one way.  Stry: I was working the West Trapps booth a few weekends ago and this guy was panicking because his taxi hadn't arrived and he worried he would miss the bus(his first time at the Gunks).  I said "Next time, just stand at the end of the lot and ask exiting climbers if the can give you a lft to the station."  He seemed to think that might not work, and was getting more nervouse as time passed.....  This car full(almost) of climbers slows down as they pass by the booth on their way out and I yell out - "Hey! Can you give this guy a lift to the bus stop?" They said "sure," and in he went. It's just that easy.

RichBeBe · · New York City, NY · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0
Happiegrrrl wrote:

It is fairly easy to get a ride between New Platz and the cliffs on the fly. If you have that desire, post and we can explain further.  Peopl DO use taxi service, but it is like $20 one way.  Stry: I was working the West Trapps booth a few weekends ago and this guy was panicking because his taxi hadn't arrived and he worried he would miss the bus(his first time at the Gunks).  I said "Next time, just stand at the end of the lot and ask exiting climbers if the can give you a lft to the station."  He seemed to think that might not work, and was getting more nervouse as time passed.....  This car full(almost) of climbers slows down as they pass by the booth on their way out and I yell out - "Hey! Can you give this guy a lift to the bus stop?" They said "sure," and in he went. It's just that easy.

Also since a lot of climbers stop at Rock&Snow you can walk there and look for a ride up from there.

David Kerkeslager · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 30
Happiegrrrl wrote:

You can take the bus up from NYC and get dropped at New Paltz. If you are coming up for day trips the 7am bus departing from Grand Central is the one to take, as it gets you to new Paltz by 9am.

https://trailwaysny.com/bus-from-new-paltz-to-new-york-city/

Do you know if it's possible to purchase tickets at the bus stop?

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 1,875
Happiegrrrl wrote:

You can take the bus up from NYC and get dropped at New Paltz. If you are coming up for day trips the 7am bus departing from Grand Central is the one to take, as it gets you to new Paltz by 9am.

I understand that Trailways leaves NYC from Port Authority Station, not GCT. Someone with firsthand know-how may want to confirm this.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 1,875
David Kerkeslager wrote:

Do you know if it's possible to purchase tickets at the bus stop?

Um... yes one can purchase bus tickets at the bus station.

Happiegrrrl · · Gunks · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 0

Oops - yes - bus leaves from Port Authority, and not Grand Central(I'm getting old).  And yes, you can purchase tickets at the bus station.

Rob D. · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30
Happiegrrrl wrote:

Oops - yes - bus leaves from Port Authority, and not Grand Central(I'm getting old).  And yes, you can purchase tickets at the bus station.

worth noting that even if you have tickets, it's worth getting there a few minutes early as occasionally the bus will be full and you can be SOL or waiting for the next one. 

Adam H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined 20 days ago · Points: 0
Happiegrrrl wrote:

Stry: I was working the West Trapps booth a few weekends ago and this guy was panicking because his taxi hadn't arrived and he worried he would miss the bus(his first time at the Gunks).  I said "Next time, just stand at the end of the lot and ask exiting climbers if the can give you a lft to the station."  He seemed to think that might not work, and was getting more nervouse as time passed.....  This car full(almost) of climbers slows down as they pass by the booth on their way out and I yell out - "Hey! Can you give this guy a lift to the bus stop?" They said "sure," and in he went. It's just that easy.

That was me! Thanks so much for helping out a first timer! And I made my bus haha

Jon Frisby · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 25

We have a fairly active NYC facebook group "NYC to Gunks Carpooling"

You should try to get Rob D to climb with you

Rob D. · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30

I'm looking for a partner next week.  send me an email:

davis.roba AT gmail

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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