Rumney routes with knee bars?


Original Post
caesar.salad · · earth · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 85

I am just itching to break in my new knee pad. Any suggestions?

Zach Swanson · · Newton, MA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 38

Jedi Mind Tricks (not necessary but makes the 3rd clip more stable)

Kundalini

Stoned Temple Pilot (quite secure without a pad though)

Tin Monkeys

Restless Native

Apocalypse Later

Urban Surfer/Suburban

Predator (I think)

Muscle Beach

Jon Frisby · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 100

Suburban/Urban Surfer

Beat Junkie

Tin Man and Kundalini are probably the best "pad required" routes in that the grade changes significantly based on whether you've got one

DRusso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 365

Kundalini for sure, that knee bar is really nuanced and painful sans pad.

caesar.salad · · earth · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 85

Sweet, thanks yall!

Zach Swanson · · Newton, MA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 38

Turns out you can get a pretty sweet no hands knee bar in the middle of Flying Squirrel too.

Kyle vH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 18

I was thinking Jedi Mind Tricks, too--you can also kneebar when clipping the chains but its more of a knee-scum not a true no-hands-rest with a knee.

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 0

I think Lee mentioned one near the top of Smokestack.  

I have to think if you go looking for "non difficulty changing" knee bars, or the ones which do not make clipping easier, you will find quite a few besides the ones already mentioned.

Sounds like fun.  Personally, I go for gratuitous heel hooks :) 

Jon Frisby · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 100
Kyle vH wrote:

I was thinking Jedi Mind Tricks, too--you can also kneebar when clipping the chains but its more of a knee-scum not a true no-hands-rest with a knee.

hmm I got a no hands

Zach Swanson · · Newton, MA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 38
Kyle vH wrote:

I was thinking Jedi Mind Tricks, too--you can also kneebar when clipping the chains but its more of a knee-scum not a true no-hands-rest with a knee.

There's actually 3 possible knee bars on Jedi.

Kyle vH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 18
Zach Swanson wrote:

There's actually 3 possible knee bars on Jedi.

I last climbed it over a decade ago and my memory is fuzzy--I have no doubt you're right.

I don't think I was able to turn the last one at the chains into a no-hands situation but it greatly helped with that final clip.

Zach Swanson · · Newton, MA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 38

Well you can only really do 2 of the knee bars per run as 2 of them are mutually exclusive.

Eli · · Lives in a truck · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,624

India has a pretty good knee-scum-bar on it.

Eli · · Lives in a truck · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,624

Pretzel Logic's crux is significantly easier if you figure out the kneebar, and I guess there's another one in the vertical section. Both right knee?

Hobo Greg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 120

Pads are aid.

Zach Swanson · · Newton, MA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 38
Eli wrote:

Pretzel Logic's crux is significantly easier if you figure out the kneebar, and I guess there's another one in the vertical section. Both right knee?

I'd love to hear about the one in the crux because the only other way I know to get through that is a heinous crimp and a lot of swearing. I assume you're talking about just over the roof right?

Eli · · Lives in a truck · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,624

Localmotion has a couple at the funky start. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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