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Mt. Hood technical routes in July?

Original Post
NatejWeber · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Hi all,

I climbed Mt. Hood in May via the standard Sunshine route but I'd love to do a technical route.

Are there any technical routes worth doing at this time or is it really worth waiting until fall/winter?


Dylan Colon · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 350

Unless there is a massive cold snap in the works, I'd wait till November. At that point, the North Face Gullies come into condition (though not every year), but expect a really high technical ice to snow ratio if that's the case. 

NatejWeber · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Figured as much, thanks Dylan.

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 162

FYI the "Standard Route" and the "Sunshine Route" are completely different things, on opposite sides of the mountain.

At this point, the good technical routes are mostly out of shape.  That being said, Cooper Spur and Sunshine may still be in decent shape, being north facing (not sure though, I haven't been up that way this season).  Whether you consider those routes "technical" or not is very subjective.

Weren't you asking about the Price Glacier route on Shuksan recently?  Routes up in that neck of the woods are probably your best bet right now, although Price is a MASSIVE step up from Hood South Side.  Fisher Chimneys might be worth considering.

NatejWeber · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

My bad I meant standard

i love ice, so an ideal route on Hood for me will have to wait for fall/winter. 

my partner for Shushkan is injured so thats out. I was going to climb july 28th. Trying to decide what to climb on my free weekend. 

Thanks for the info, very appreciated

Allen Sanderson · · Oootah · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,145

Probably out of shape but a while back we did the north face gullly on 4 July. It was in great nick. And the road to Cloud Cap was open.

DTC · · Cambridge, MA · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 0

Has anyone been on the South Side route recently? Late-July seems past the prime season, but there was above average snowfall this past winter...

I'm headed to Oregon later this week and thinking about sneaking a climb in.

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 162

Nate, I'm sorry, I am not trying to be mean, but I think you need to carefully consider the routes you've done and the routes you have planned and make sure they are sensible.  I think your assessment of waiting until winter to get one some routes that are more ice is a good one.  DKH would probably be a good option for you to look at, it has the same approach as the south side and has a couple pitches of WI2-3.

DTC, a friend of mine went up this weekend.  It is, of course, not in "prime" shape, but you can still get up via Old/Mazama chute.  You'll definitely want an early start, and beware increased rockfall hazard.

Chris C. · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 321

From pictures at least, Hood looks quite melted out at the moment. I'm staying away from it until next season. 

NatejWeber · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Kyle, appreciate the concern. I carefully consider each enterprise I undertake, which includes route beta, my skillset, partner choice, and timing. The forum and input from folks like you is a big help. Thanks again. 

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 162

Nate, you might also consider the Adams Glacier route on Adams.  It tends to be in great shape pretty late in the season (it's probably still in great shape now), has some fun easy ice climbing, and some complex glacier navigation.  Would be a good stepping stone to Price.  We climbed it last year in mid-July and it was in awesome shape, this year we have even more snow so it's probably still good.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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