Sport Climbing at Thacher State Park: Useful links to what you need to know


Original Post
Nicholas Hernandez · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 296

Hey Folks there is a ton of questions seeming to be asked about about climbing at Thacher State Park Here is a quick list of links that will help you:

Thacher Climbing Coalition - Website

Thacher Climbing Coalition - Facebook

Detailed article on what you need to know climbing at Thacher - Article


If you are looking to climb at Thacher definitely check out the links above. Everyone make sure to wear your helmet! 

Everything is still very new, there will be dirt, choss and potential rock fall. 

Happy Sends!

caesar.salad · · earth · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 85

Estimate on development potential? rough estimate of number of potential routes? how many crags?

MikeH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 735
caesar.salad wrote:

Estimate on development potential? rough estimate of number of potential routes? how many crags?

Thanks for asking, for the rest of this year development is closed because this whole sport climbing thing is some kind of "experiment" for the park and they want to get stats like visitor numbers and other things first before moving ahead with expansion. 

It is certainly necessary to expand as Thacher has potential for a lot more steep bulge routes in the 12-13 range. At the low end there is some more lines available, but the 6s and 7s in my opinion are more chossy and labor intensive. There are tons of spots on clean rock with almost no cleaning for steep 12 faces, Many of which are short and intense, such as the wall to the right of Hysterisis. The short twisted dihedral thing to the right of Strategery or the the wall to the right of Ian's Route. You can see from the numbering system that there could be 300ish routes in the two cliffs we are given, however it is likely that after about 140 routes all the cleaner rock would be taken. There is one other cliff in the escarpment which is taller (90' of vert rock without the mid ledge) and has even cleaner rock however its not fully owned by the park and I recommend the climbing community support the AF and TCC efforts to secure access to this other cliff, in the future there will be a public campaign for this at some point. The first step is working with the two current cliffs and tapping out the best lines available, even if many are only 50'. With luck there will be another development period next year where the dozen or so interested parties can get in there.

caesar.salad · · earth · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 85

Sounds great. Nice to have a big limestone crag in the NE now.

Candice Liao · · white plains, NY · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 0

A group of us is planning on going up to Thacher to climb this weekend. It seems like expected rainfall on Saturday, so we might climb Sunday instead.

 Does anyone know if the rock there is safe to climb after rain?

Ben Zito · · Middletown, NJ · Joined May 2016 · Points: 15

Hey! Does anyone know if the approach to the crag is doable for a dog? It looks like it involves squeezing into a crack but I'm not exactly sure what else it entails. Don't want to drive a few hours just to find out that the pup can't come along!

Thanks!

Stein Pull · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0
Ben Zito wrote:

Hey! Does anyone know if the approach to the crag is doable for a dog? It looks like it involves squeezing into a crack but I'm not exactly sure what else it entails. Don't want to drive a few hours just to find out that the pup can't come along!

Thanks!

Dogs are not allowed in the climbing area at Thacher. If you must take your dog climbing with you, you will need to select a different climbing destination.

byPerched · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

My wife and I checked out thatcher on the raining Sunday of Labor Day weekend. 

The approach is bizarre and cool but I weigh 200lbs and have a 36” waistline; I think my specs are about the upper limit for accessing the climbing area. 

The area would be well served with rappelling access. 

The rumors about the choss are not overstated but the climbing has potential. 

Have fun all. 

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 300

Maybe this is somewhere in this thread but as of my last visit in August DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED at Thacher. Despite my reaching out to the Thacher Climber's Coalition on this point, their website appears not to have been updated to reflect this rule. There is (or was) a big sign at the trailhead about it though...  It's a sensible rule, there are a ton of places where a dog could easily take a very long fall. Ditto for small children, by the way.

Ben Zito · · Middletown, NJ · Joined May 2016 · Points: 15
Stein Pull wrote:

Dogs are not allowed in the climbing area at Thacher. If you must take your dog climbing with you, you will need to select a different climbing destination.

Thanks for the heads up!

Eli · · Lives in a truck · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,619

Looking for a partner for a half day there on this coming Saturday.

MikeH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 735

The park eventually came to a conclusion to have no dogs and not everyone at the TCC was informed so info didn't get updated. Many dogs had been there with no problems.

Limestone is not weaker after rain like sandstone, however its ultra slick. Luckily there are many walls that are slightly overhanging so if its not windy rain than many routes do stay dry for a while. Walls that stay dry include Lower Misery Wall, Cave Wall, Mahican, two routes on the right side of Dark Block. The routes with the rounded low angle finishes like those at the Hyphen area get soaked on the top section of each climb.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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