Steve House's thoughts on crampon choice


Original Post
Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 615

Read Steve's ideas here: Uphill Athlete

I thought that this would be a really good read for many who are looking to break into ice climbing and have questions about crampon choice. 

divnamite · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 90

Here’s how I see climbing gear (and lots of gear): Different companies, for whatever reason, do certain products really well, and other products that don’t seem so different, they never master. Let’s pick on Black Diamond because they’re owned by soul-less venture capitalists: BD simply does not have it in their culture, in their make-up, their DNA, to build good ice climbing gear. They never have. Their tools are imperfect, if not outright horrible, and their crampons, except for a brief Sabertooth era, are equally lousy. Camalots? Brillant. Great. They do great rock protection. Skis? If you think Black Diamond skis are any good, please try a Kaestle or a Blizzard, or something from a REAL ski company. Different product, same reason for the same result.

Burn!!!

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 15

Seems to me that BD has pretty good screws and I had good luck with stingers and cyborgs. Not so happy with the picks and vipers.

mediocre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

I get what he's saying but that's an unfairly broad comparison of skis. 

ac1 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 0

The current BD Helio skis are made in Austria by Blizzard.

mediocre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0
ac1 wrote:

The current BD Helio skis are made in Austria by Blizzard.

Take that Steve House. 

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 15

the article seems to be a vehicle for him to pump his sponsors....   personaly i like camp/ cassine a lot better than Grivel when it comes to ice tools........ YMMV

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 0

I pretty much idolize Steve House but I think he maybe got a little carried away here...

I'm not sure how much it really helps beginners. As Steve himself notes the much maligned Sabretooths were good enough for the Slovak Direct...I wouldn't agonize over crampons. 

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 107
jdejace wrote:

I pretty much idolize Steve House but I think he maybe got a little carried away here...

Agreed.  I was disappointed when this article came out.  It seems like most of the content is digs are other brands besides his sponsors (BD) and other climbers (like Will Gadd, who seems like a genuine nice guy).

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 998

House is sponsored by Grivel. No conflict of interest or anything there, lol.

I'd take anyone's advice who has a financial stake in the companies in question, with a giant bag of salt.

Edek Falkowski · · Buffalo, NY · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 65

No mention of Cyborgs? Those things are rad...

Turner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 0

I'm just here to read the comments. 

Eric · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 0

 "Let’s pick on Black Diamond because they’re owned by soul-less venture capitalists"

Imagine being such a Great Man that you do not even hesitate to declare the intrinsic inferiority of other humans because they invest in companies et al.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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