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Question about Ten Sleep "sport anchors"


Original Post
Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 549

Had a great trip to 10S and can understand why it is so well liked.

But ran across anchor setups I didn't understand- they consisted of one (usually large) open shut and one chain.

So you still needed to untie to thread, making the open shut kind of useless.

Were there carabiners on the chains at one time? Presumably stolen or just plain removed as too grooved?

If so, I'll bring some captive steel biners on my next trip and replace the missing gear as I try to tick off the classics.

Super job of development up there, really hats off!

nathankutcher · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 0

The biner was removed. I would guess they probably became too worn and the person who took it felt like they couldn't contribute one of their own. In my opinion that isn't much better than stealing it. Thanks for offering to replace some! 


Captive biners are good, but hard to replace once they wear. At the Red even steel wears out faster than you would think. I'm not sure how much of an issue that is at Tensleep, but a lot of the cliff bases seem like sandboxes to me.

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 549
nathankutcher wrote:


Captive biners are good, but hard to replace once they wear. 

The Trangos just need a pair of pliers to remove the pin.

Mussys might be a better answer. Although then they might hang lower than the open shuts. 

No perfect answer. 

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

Sounds like the stuff one finds that is not good to TR on unless you use your gear to make it smoother.... then last person raps. 

Scott Ayers has installed top anchors like that at Zapa Dome- at Cochese. 

They will last almost forever. 

so 10S was good??? its a 1,200 mile drive for me. 

The company I'm working at is closing it's California location so there might be some "vacation" time soon. 

go road triping  


Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 549

I'm pretty sure having the last climber lower is OK at Tensleep. 

I am going to donate to the Bighorn Climbing Coalition to cover any wear and tear I caused, however.

This was our first climbing road trip in many years, so take my opinion with a grain of salt, but I thought 10S was great and very much worth driving 1200 miles. 

The season is a little weird, as is the daily schedule, but really fun routes, lots of them, pleasant environment, just a wonderful place. 

If you come through Boulder, let's climb.

Petsfed · · Laramie, WY · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 925

I noticed that on a lot of easier routes. I think it is a lot of visiting folks unused to good sport anchors just lifting the crabs Willy-nilly.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

I've seen that style before years back- I always assumed the shut was for lowering off during redpoint attempts while the draws were up, and then you went in direct and threaded for rappelling/lowering as the case may be. 

Either way, a carabiner should definitely be added....

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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