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Easiest overhanging sport route in CO?


aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 294

If the OP is a dude I would still have given him the same advice.

I looked through the routes I've done in CO and found a few that fit the keywords "juggy" and/or "overhanging".

In Clear Creek:

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/fill-in-the-blanks/109028752
My note for this says "jug hauling fun!" Probably the only one at its grade. It still has slabby sections, but the harder moves are well protected.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/mineral-museum/105749800
This one isn't overhanging, but it's pretty juggy. None of that crimpy balancy stuff that usually spits me off. There is a big ledge by the first bolt, but the moves above it are pretty easy and on big holds.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/mirthmobile/105748457
Probably want to stick clip the first bolt (I did), but after that, it's a jug haul to the anchors.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/panama-red/106210200
Juggy at the bottom. Unfortunately it gets slabby near the top, but the falls should be clean.

At Shelf Road:

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/humes-horror/107041112
And the route to its left: Induction Oven. Both are pretty short, but both climb on huge pockets on a slightly overhanging wall.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/jasonbeckercom/106169770
Not overhanging, but really, really good.

Abbie R · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 5
Noah Yetter wrote:

Abbie, I'm in more or less the same boat. I'll try anything up to 12a in the gym, but outdoor 9s terrify me. Very interested to see what people suggest in this thread.

The only mostly-vertical juggy climbing I've come across in the state is The Training Grounds at Devil's Head https://www.mountainproject.com/v/106920760

Other than that all I can recommend is a trip to Red Rock NV.

Also I'd say it's worth giving slab climbing a real shot. It's started to grow on me with repeated exposure.

Training Grounds has been on my list for a while now! Definitely hoping to make the journey down there some weekend soon.

Slab... I've climbed a lot more of it than I would've liked and I still curse my way up it every time, ha!

Abbie R · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 5
aikibujin wrote:

In Clear Creek:

Thanks for these! 

I was at East Colfax somewhat recently with the goal of leading everything there under 5.9. My partner led Fill in the Blanks, and I was all prepared to TR it when the sky started dumping buckets. We waited it out and got some amazing crowd-free climbing after the rain stopped, but I never did get on Fill in the Blanks. Redemption is calling! Hopefully one day soon... 

Taketaketaketaketake ....take · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 89

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/upperdeck-n-spackle/107834948

A bit of a reach grade-wise, perhaps? It's also a bit of an adventure to get up there because you get to climb a full pitch of 5.9 or 5.10 to reach the upper deck ledge, but this is my favorite route at Devil's Head. Very overhanging with wild exposure, but the holds are YUGE and the falls are into open space.  

The crux is also short, which I felt made it a bit soft for 10b, but maybe I was just having a good day. 

Adam Slattery · · Platteville Wisconsin · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 10
Paul Hutton wrote:

As much as I hate to read junk threads about people getting scared on sport climbs when they try going outside (we all get scared, but some people actually love the rush and hate to see the gym gumbies taking up space at the beloved crags that don't appreciate the consequence as much. Please send that shit, or fall trying. Nothing should come easily. )

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/namaste-wall/110382881 Some of the most amazing sandstone sport climbing I've ever done. Actually pretty easy for the grades. Nothing technical, or physically difficult moves. Just very long. Endurance climbing on strung out overhang. Even with hard catches, your toes will but lightly tap the wall. Jug hauls, and no-hands rests. If you hang on a bolt because you're afraid of your goody two shoes self taking a little whipper on these, go back to the gym. 

Can I have your autograph??

Abbie R · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 5
Taketaketaketaketake ....take wrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/upperdeck-n-spackle/107834948

A bit of a reach grade-wise, perhaps? It's also a bit of an adventure to get up there because you get to climb a full pitch of 5.9 or 5.10 to reach the upper deck ledge, but this is my favorite route at Devil's Head. Very overhanging with wild exposure, but the holds are YUGE and the falls are into open space.  

The crux is also short, which I felt made it a bit soft for 10b, but maybe I was just having a good day. 

Thanks for this suggestion! From the comments for the route: "A really fun, slightly overhung jug haul." It might be a reach grade-wise, yes, but sounds like it would be worth an attempt!

Fritz N. · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 115
Paul Hutton wrote:

 The mountains are harsh, too. Prepare for a beating when you thrust yourself into wild terrain. Expecting everything to be nice isn't realistic. 

I hope someday I'll be able to thrust myself as hard as you do, Paul Hutton.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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