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Easiest overhanging sport route in CO?


Original Post
Abbie R · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 5

Heya folks,

I'm leading 10a and sometimes 10b in the gym, including on our overhanging walls, but outside, I get freaked out and can only psych myself up to lead 7s and maybe the odd 8 here and there. However, unfortunately, 6s/7s/8s always seem to be slabby -- or vertical at best. If any exist, I'd love to get some suggestions for slightly overhanging sport routes that have big, juggy holds that I can try with the confidence of a clean fall. Do routes like this exist in CO at or below 10a?

I know that's kinda specific, but thanks in advance for any suggestions!

ALuckyDuck · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 60

Abbie, I think we may have met through Will E! I can think of a few slightly overhanging routes with clean falls (low 5.10s). If you're looking for a soft catch on a safe route Cristina and I would be happy help you out. -Christian Q

Abbie R · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 5

Hey Christian, we did! We should definitely climb together soon - are you guys back from your van-cation? (We might have exchanged numbers, but if not, let's connect on FB.)

ALuckyDuck · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 60

We're back. I'll FB message ya!

AndyMac · · Center, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 595

Barney at Shelf, 9++ and it's got a rest on a death flake.  sorry I can't join in the MP reunion and be part of the crowd :(

Abbie R · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 5
AndyMac wrote:

Barney at Shelf, 9++ and it's got a rest on a death flake.  sorry I can't join in the MP reunion and be part of the crowd :(

No worries - I appreciate your suggestion! Maybe we'll run into each other at Shelf someday :)

Paul Hutton · · Dirtbaggin · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 706

As much as I hate to read junk threads about people getting scared on sport climbs when they try going outside (we all get scared, but some people actually love the rush and hate to see the gym gumbies taking up space at the beloved crags that don't appreciate the consequence as much. Please send that shit, or fall trying. Nothing should come easily. )

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/namaste-wall/110382881 Some of the most amazing sandstone sport climbing I've ever done. Actually pretty easy for the grades. Nothing technical, or physically difficult moves. Just very long. Endurance climbing on strung out overhang. Even with hard catches, your toes will but lightly tap the wall. Jug hauls, and no-hands rests. If you hang on a bolt because you're afraid of your goody two shoes self taking a little whipper on these, go back to the gym. 

Xam · · Boulder, Co · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 73
Paul Hutton wrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/namaste-wall/110382881 Some of the most amazing sandstone sport climbing I've ever done. Actually pretty easy for the grades. Nothing technical, or physically difficult moves. Just very long. Endurance climbing on strung out overhang. Even with hard catches, your toes will but lightly tap the wall. Jug hauls, and no-hands rests. If you hang on a bolt because you're afraid of your goody two shoes self taking a little whipper on these, go back to the gym. 

Not in Colorado.

Rich Liang · · Millbrae, California · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 290

Dr. Strangelove 5.9 at the Kubricks Wall in Rifle. The Right side of this wall is pretty much easy, well bolted, overhanging climbing.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/kubricks/107235920

Jeff Dillon · · Lyons, CO · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 90

Check out these if you haven't already.

Jeff Dillon · · Lyons, CO · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 90
Paul Hutton wrote:

As much as I hate to read junk threads about people getting scared on sport climbs when they try going outside (we all get scared, but some people actually love the rush and hate to see the gym gumbies taking up space at the beloved crags that don't appreciate the consequence as much. Please send that shit, or fall trying. Nothing should come easily. )

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/namaste-wall/110382881 Some of the most amazing sandstone sport climbing I've ever done. Actually pretty easy for the grades. Nothing technical, or physically difficult moves. Just very long. Endurance climbing on strung out overhang. Even with hard catches, your toes will but lightly tap the wall. Jug hauls, and no-hands rests. If you hang on a bolt because you're afraid of your goody two shoes self taking a little whipper on these, go back to the gym. 

Not even remotely helpful.

Bruce Hildenbrand · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 945
Abbie R · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 5
Paul Hutton wrote:

As much as I hate to read junk threads about people getting scared on sport climbs when they try going outside (we all get scared, but some people actually love the rush and hate to see the gym gumbies taking up space at the beloved crags that don't appreciate the consequence as much. Please send that shit, or fall trying. Nothing should come easily. )

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/namaste-wall/110382881 Some of the most amazing sandstone sport climbing I've ever done. Actually pretty easy for the grades. Nothing technical, or physically difficult moves. Just very long. Endurance climbing on strung out overhang. Even with hard catches, your toes will but lightly tap the wall. Jug hauls, and no-hands rests. If you hang on a bolt because you're afraid of your goody two shoes self taking a little whipper on these, go back to the gym. 

Seems a bit harsh, Paul, but thanks for the suggestion, I guess? Geez.

Abbie R · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 5
Rich Liang wrote:

Dr. Strangelove 5.9 at the Kubricks Wall in Rifle. The Right side of this wall is pretty much easy, well bolted, overhanging climbing.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/kubricks/107235920

Thank you! I've stayed away from Rifle because I've always heard that if you don't climb hard, you won't have any fun there. But it's good to have something in my back pocket to try if I find myself there anytime soon!

Abbie R · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 5
Jeff Dillon wrote:

Check out these if you haven't already.

Thank you for this great list! Back in February(?), I actually tried to lead Lazy Day, but I couldn't bring myself to move past the second (I think) bolt. Would be a good one to go back and try again! 

Abbie R · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 5
Bruce Hildenbrand wrote:

This route is for you!

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/lucky-strikes-again/105758629

Apparently so! From the comments for this route: "best overhanging 5.9 in Bolder Canyon."

Thank you!

Paul Hutton · · Dirtbaggin · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 706
Abbie R wrote:

Seems a bit harsh, Paul, but thanks for the suggestion, I guess? Geez.

 The mountains are harsh, too. Prepare for a beating when you thrust yourself into wild terrain. Expecting everything to be nice isn't realistic. 

Paul Hutton · · Dirtbaggin · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 706
Jeff Dillon wrote:

Not even remotely helpful.

 It helps if you leave home and go to where the route you want is sitting and waiting. Sure helped me. 

Dave Alie · · Golden, CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 70
Paul Hutton wrote:

 The mountains are harsh, too. Prepare for a beating when you thrust yourself into wild terrain.

Wow, you must be a badass

Abbie: there are some really good suggestions on the thread already but I think this route is quite fun (and super convenient to Denver), though it's at the top end of your grade range: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/pretty-woman/106274771

It's mostly mellow to some steep-but-juggy climbing to the anchors. Despite seeing a decent amount of traffic, there are a couple (very well labeled) loose blocks near the start of the overhang. Nothing to be overly concerned about, but keep an eye out when you're up there. Have fun!

Kedron Silsbee · · Princeton, NJ · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0
Paul Hutton wrote:

 The mountains are harsh, too. Prepare for a beating when you thrust yourself into wild terrain. Expecting everything to be nice isn't realistic. 

right...that's why people ask for suggestions for specific types of terrain that they can handle to gain experience before thrusting themselves into "wild" terrain.  I don't think the harshness of the mountains is particularly relevant to a thread about sport-climbing.  Expecting everything to be nice on a safe sport route seems well within the realm of reality.  I'm sorry we're not all badass like you - maybe there should be a "no noobs allowed" forum subsection that you only gain access to once you tick a certain number of 5.12s, and then you won't need to have your mountainProject experience blighted by threads such as this.

Jeff Dillon · · Lyons, CO · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 90
Paul Hutton wrote:

 It helps if you leave home and go to where the route you want is sitting and waiting. Sure helped me. 

Cool story, bro. You realize she has 6,000+ routes within 2 hours of her house, right? You left Pilot Mountain, NC. There is a big difference.

She asked a very specific and legitimate question. You responded with pure douchebaggery, mansplaining, and irrelevant recommendations. Multiple people have now called you out on it. 

Take a hint. Let it go. Learn from it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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