On the topic of Trad Caddys


Original Post
Vas Carmicheal · · Mexican Hat, UT · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5

I'm curious to know how many of you actually employ Trad Caddys on your single pitch routes. I've used one at Indian Creek several times, and it was an indispensable  asset to have somebody jugging next to you and handing you pieces as you call for them. It made  tough lines like, Six Star Crack, Air Swedin, or BFBB go much more smoothly and is very sporting.

This is all good and well, however I have noticed that people are starting to place secondary offset anchors just for their Caddys. What are peoples thoughts on this? 

Also while we are on the topic, can anybody opine on any "big name climbs/sends" where there was blatant use of a Trad Caddy, but they kept them out of the shot during filming?

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 115

Do they climb it for you too?  Is this actually a thing, or are you just talking about when training to lead?

Might as well set up anchors, sew up the route while lowering, and then clip the pre-placed gear.

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

how much did you tip? if u don't mind me asking...

Emmett Lyman · · Somerville, MA · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 355

Part of me hopes this is real, just for the audacity.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

They get a tip for ticking hand and foot holds with pink sidewalk chalk.


Vas Carmicheal · · Mexican Hat, UT · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5
BigB wrote:

how much did you tip? if u don't mind me asking...

This really depends on the skill of the Caddy, a good Caddy will offer ample advice on the fly (i.e. "we've got a section of really tight hands coming up, as he gets the .75's on deck)

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

Sounds great to me.....  but to keep it sporting, like in golf, lets limit the amount of gear the Caddy and climber may use- carry- on the rack.....  to maybe 18 pieces total. 

Then that would add some spice to the endeavor.

CLIMBER....  "we are going to need at least six number 4s for the wide part.....

CADDY....   "no you are going to run it out in that section, you can have two only... you suck at the off hands and that will stop you cold if you can't plug lots of the half inch stuff before the crux"

CLIMBER.... "I think I am already screwed... I want my mommy"



 


NegativeK · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 5

If my caddy suggests or hints at a piece, they're fired. I only get one onsight attempt, and I won't have the help fucking it up for me with microspray.

Nate Doyle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10

I want to be a Trad Caddy when I grow up.

ViperScale · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 235

How was your caddy keeping up with you? Alot of the routes I climb don't have the room for a climber next to me. I am assuming they are jugging next to you on a fixed line right? But how do you handle routes that traverse back and forth?

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Does this mean we get to drink while climbing, too?  More importantly: can we get 4x4 golfcarts to drive between walls?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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