Mountain Project Logo

Awesome roof climbs


Original Post
CrimpDaddy-WesP · · Houghton, NY · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 230

Hi everyone. I have been thinking about climbing for about 4 years now. I have discovered some truths about myself, particularly that I love climbing, and that I am far more likely to try a climb that is beautiful or aesthetic or has gnarly moves. 

As it turns out, I love roof climbs. They are super cool. I know of some famous ones. However, I believe I do not know of many of the ones that exist. I would love to climb roofs more when I finally get the chance.

If you could share your favorite roof climb, ((edit) especially horizontal extended climbs) or the coolest roof climb you can think of, regardless of whether you've climbed it or not, I would love that. Also location. So I can try it!!! 

Thank you fellow climbers.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 23,275

Are you talking local, regional, or national?  You going to travel for this?

CrimpDaddy-WesP · · Houghton, NY · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 230

Literally anything Tony. Some may be dreams, some projects, some both :)

Brad.mering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 30

I've always loved roofs, maybe because they often feel like boulder problems, rather than routes.  Here are my favs.  Lots of relatively famous ones here, but its a start.  My dream roof route is Separate Reality in Yosemite.  

Tried to think of climbs that had a straight up roof encounter.  I feel like a lot of roofs, you kind of thread the needle and avoid actually straight up pulling the roof. 

Gunks:
* Home of all the best roof climbs :)
Wegetables I've never seen before
10,000 Restless Virgins
Fat City Direct
The Dangler (not a great route but really fun for 10 feet)
Infinite Space
Yellow Wall
Kansas City (Haven't actually gotten it yet, cause I'm weak)

Eldorado Canyon:
Alice in Bucketland
T2 (just the opening moves, but they are steep)
The Wisdom
Vertigo
Art Spar
Psychosis
Guenese
Kings X

RMNP:
Flying buttress has an unreal roof pitch.  Juggy gunks roofs at 13 thousand feet on an awesome arete.
Sykes Sickle's roof pitch is super fun

Winds: 
Black Elk (Sick double roof fist roof crack jamming in the alpine)

I'm trying to remember some of the good stuff at the New and Rumney.  Its been a while since I climbed either of those places, and there was good real roof climbing both places.

Its a start.

ViperScale · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 235

You do realize a very large amount of climbs involve at least some degree of a roof right?

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190
CrimpDaddy-WesP · · Houghton, NY · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 230

Thanks so much guys! I love it all. I am however looking more for climbs that have extended horizontal roof sections, but everything is cool! 

Brad.mering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 30

@Crimpdaddy.  Infinite Space and Kansas City in the Gunks both have sustained inverted climbing on them.  The Dangler has a short section, maybe a body length or two, of true horizontal. If you haven't been on them, they all take pretty good gear, and they aren't too far from you.  If you're looking to go for it on very steep stuff, they'd be a good spot to start.

Brad.mering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 30

Since you're from western NY, I was trying to think of other east coast steep inverted climbing.  Puppy Chow in the New is steep.  The Greatest show on Earth, also at the new looks rad, but its really too hard for me.  But there are two more super steep (horizontal) lines not too far from you.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,745
ViperScale · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 235

Apollo Reed  - New River Gorge

Twinkie - Red River Gorge

dylan grabowski · · Oakland · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 55

Separate Reality, Yosemite.

Alexander Stathis · · Athens, GA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 80

The Obed, TN.

Nivel Egres · · New York, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 130
CrimpDaddy-WesP wrote:

Thanks so much guys! I love it all. I am however looking more for climbs that have extended horizontal roof sections, but everything is cool! 

If you prefer a boulder problem, Cataclysms Edge goes at V7, other stuff in the cave is harder but equally good:


Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 83
scott fuzz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 125

If yer in w.ny?? I seem to remember a giant roof in Lionshead, ont. Can't recall it's name. Anyone??

Andrew Ryder · · Arizony · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 3,800

they call Flagstaff "rooftown"

so...

Nivel Egres · · New York, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 130
Andrew Ryder wrote:

they call Flagstaff "rooftown"

Yeah, lifetime of awesome roofy limestone... 

CrimpDaddy-WesP · · Houghton, NY · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 230

thanks again guys, love to give some of these a try someday!

Dylan Pike · · SLC, UT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 35
Alexander Stathis wrote:

The Obed, TN.

Tons in the Obed. Solstice is classic.

Cory Furrow · · Blacksburg, VA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 25

If you make it to the New (Summersville Lake) check out Narcissist Cave.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply