Granite Slab and Offwidth


Original Post
Jaden Lojik · · Eagle Mountain, Utah · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 10

Hello,

Was wondering if anybody could give me some direction on some granite routes in LCC(or any surrounding area) to work on progressively to get better at slab and offwidth climbing? Difficulty starting at 5.9 to 11d(lets be hopeful here ha)

Thanks!

bmdhacks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 383

If you climb Assembly Line 5.7 on the Industrial Wall, you can TR Maid in America, a pretty glassy slab route at 10b.

There's lots of other slab routes there to play on.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 12,603

Slab...not sure if you want to lead or TR to hone your stink buggin'.  Nothing like being on point on a run out friction route to get it figured out.

That said...you can drop a rope down a bunch of stuff in LCC by climbing an easier adjacent route.  Daddylonglegs and drop a rope down River's Edge.  Cranial to Smitty's and Kermits.  Barefoot in Barbados and that area has a bunch of friction.

Spencer Parkin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

There is a 9+ friction slab on the trail to green adjective gully.  I tried and miserably failed to climb it.  You can walk to the anchors.

Dylan Pike · · SLC, UT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5
Spencer Parkin wrote:

There is a 9+ friction slab on the trail to green adjective gully.  I tried and miserably failed to climb it.  You can walk to the anchors.

Prune face?

JimG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 0
Dylan Pike wrote:

Prune face?

University Slab

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 100

Crikey - good on you! I've personally spent a very long career assiduously avoiding getting good at either of those things...

Daniel S Parker · · Sandy Utah · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 45

Hey Jaden! I'll chip in for the offwidth portion of your question. 

The best thing to start on is likely the offwidth boulder in the secret garden and the split at 5 mile, after those your likely ready to take on Firestarter and Burner, followed by Certain Death. After that the next two that come to mind are Cashmere Crack and Cloister. After that start hitting up the invert boulders, ("Round the sun, Twister, acracknaphobia, and I chew chew chews you) and then you'll likely be ready to start trying On the Waterfront, Trench Warfare, and Jaws. 

I left out a few offwidths here because they're either obscure or in my opinion plainly suck and wont help you (Lowe Blow is neither an offwidth nor a decent route I.M.O.).

I feel like this boulder then route tactic can be applied to slabs as well. There are plenty of decent slabby boulders in LCC that'll likely help with a lead head more than TR'ing. 

Lets meet up and climb some wide again!  

Spencer Parkin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

Crescent crack?  

Carl Smith · · BeaUTAHfull · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 20
Spencer Parkin wrote:

Crescent crack?  

Final Link, 3rd pitch is a killer slab line. Too bad there are a few chicken heads sprinkled in there.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/final-link/105739985

Jaron a · · SLC · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Don't listen to Carl, he'll only heckle ya. 

Final link rad, though. S-direct will test your smearing skill and slab head. After those maybe nubbins to nowhere or knobs to gumbyland.

Michael Bolton · · Midvale, UT · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 30

I've been looking to get on firestarter/burner for a while but haven't found anyone who is stoked. Shoot me a PM if you want someone to hike up there with you. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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