Brazilian Climber at Red RIVER GORGE


Original Post
Lucas Rocha · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Hi guys...

Next april I am going to Red River Gorge for a 45 days trip. I'm going with my wife and we'd like to camp, do u know where is the best place to camp? I read some reviews about Migue'ls and Land of Arches?

Another tip that i'd like to get from u is the perfect crag list. The best crags that i found are:

Motherlode, darkside, drive by, bob marley, and left flank, Muir Valley, Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) and Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP), Chocolate Factory, Military Wall,  Fruit Wall 

I wanna try my first 5.13a...

do u guys recomend 2 days climb x 1 rest or 3 climb x 1 rest?

It's gonna be some months in US, and then i heading to South Africa....

US:

April 10th - May 15th RED RIVER GORGE

1 week BOULDER, CO 

2 Days Arches National Park

5 weeks JOE’S Valley

5 Days Zion and Bryce National Park

1 Week Yosemite ( Just for hiking and Boulder)

1 Week SF - LA

10 Days Austin ( My sister lives there)

PEACE

Alexander Stathis · · Athens, GA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0
Lucas Rocha wrote:

Hi guys...

Next april I am going to Red River Gorge for a 45 days trip. I'm going with my wife and we'd like to camp, do u know where is the best place to camp? I read some reviews about Migue'ls and Land of Arches?

Miguels is $2 per person per night to camp there.  Showers are 1$ per 4 minutes. Land of the Arches (LotA) is 5$ per person per night but showers are free. There's plenty of space at either place. There's also Lago Linda's which is 5$ per person per night. The major differences between LotA/Lago Linda's and Miguel's the crowds. All of them can get busy, but Miguel's is often a bit louder and has more people moving in and out at all times of the night, especially on weekends. There's food at Miguel's (pizza and breakfast), but I guess LotA is under new management and has food now too (although I haven't been there since this change was made, so I might be wrong). The choice boils down to what you're looking for. I'd say spend some time at Miguel's, and if it seems fine to you then great. If you get tired of the noise, crowds, whatever, you can move to LotA or somewhere else.  

The weather at the Red is highly variable. In April it could be cold or it could be hot. It could be icy or it could be rainy or it could be dry. Bring appropriate gear. In general, everything in the Red is wet always, as it's a very humid climate. 

Another tip that i'd like to get from u is the perfect crag list. The best crags that i found are:

Motherlode, darkside, drive by, bob marley, and left flank, Muir Valley, Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) and Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP), Chocolate Factory, Military Wall,  Fruit Wall 

The Red is logically divided into two halves: the north gorge and the south gorge. The north gorge is primarily national forest service land. Miguel's, LotA, etc are in the south gorge, but the north gorge is not a long drive away. The south gorge is primarily privately or climber owned. The south gorge has several large areas PMRP, MFRP, Muir Valley, Roadside (Gaining Fork Nature Preserve), and Torrent Falls are the major ones. Each has their own access rules and requires driving between them. Inside of each of those are different walls. Personally, there's so much good stuff at the Red that you'll have a hard time avoiding it even if you try. There is no perfect crag list. One of my favorite crags is the Solarium in Muir Valley. Midnight Surf is incredible also. Drive By hosts a huge list of (more or less) high quality climbing and might be a good place to start. The Motherlode is impressive to look at and you should probably spend a day there. The Chocolate Factory is probably the largest crag at the Red and has tons of really great climbing also. The Dark Side is also really amazing. This is by no means an exhaustive list. A guidebook called "The Best of the Red" was recently released. I haven't read it, but you may want to start there. Otherwise there are two guidebooks, one for the north and one for the south. Miguel's carries them both and they are relatively up to date. There's also redriverclimbing.com

You should be aware that road conditions at PMRP and MFRP can be pretty bad, so if you're renting a car and it's not AWD/4WD/high clearance you may have to hike further. 

I wanna try my first 5.13a...

do u guys recomend 2 days climb x 1 rest or 3 climb x 1 rest?

You're going to be there for 45 days. Why not just play it by ear and see how you feel? If you're not used to really steep consistent endurance climbing, I'd budget at least two weeks to acclimate. There are tons of classic 13's at the Red. I wouldn't even know where to begin recommending climbs for you (I don't climb that hard anyways), but the Force at the Dark Side is pretty incredible.  

It's gonna be some months in US, and then i heading to South Africa....

US:

April 10th - May 15th RED RIVER GORGE

1 week BOULDER, CO 

2 Days Arches National Park

5 weeks JOE’S Valley

5 Days Zion and Bryce National Park

1 Week Yosemite ( Just for hiking and Boulder)

1 Week SF - LA

10 Days Austin ( My sister lives there)

PEACE

Good luck. Enjoy the U.S. 

Marcelo F · · Oakland, CA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

Uau, Lucas. To com inveja. Que viagem legal, cara. Infelizmente, nunca frequentei a Red River Gorge, mas moro perto de San Francisco aqui na California. Se precisar de informacao sobre a cidade ou areas ao redor, como Yosemite, e so falar. Boa sorte com o resto da viagem! Tire muitas fotos, escale bastante e aproveite!

Jon Frisby · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 25

I would plan a contingency to leave at the beginning of May in case it's too hot. LOTA is my favorite campground. It's on a ridgeline, so cooler and less swampy feeling than Miguel's. There's not really food at LOTA. I would mostly do 2 on 1 off, with first day on focused on 12+/13- and day 2 on 12- to try to get fit, then scale your schedule near the end of your time so as to be rested enough to send the gnar. 

Best 13a is going to be pretty style dependent. The Force is really good, but if you boulder V7, Spank is an easier tick (for example)

Lucas Rocha · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks Alex, i cant believe how pro active you were....thanks a lot man... 

Thanks Jon for your tip as well....

Valeu Marcelão....vou marcar seu contato, qdo eu chegar perto de SF eu sou um toque. 

Christian · · Casa do Cacete · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 915

Red River Gorge, the RED na gíria dos gringos = show de bola

infelizmente quando fui so escalava 5.10, no nível que voce ta vai fazer a cabeca :-)

R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

Joe's for all of June? Idk should be pretty hot.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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