Palisades North Fork conditions July 4-9


Original Post
nikhilm Mm · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

we camped just at the top of the proper glacier trail, not at gayley or fischer because neither of them are snow free, and the sun cups are horrible. several snow-melt streams around glacier trail have great water. Patchy snow starts near Sam Mack Meadow (but is probably already gone). We summitted Sill via Swiss Arete and North Pal via U-Notch + Clyde variation. Took 1 rest day between the two.

Mosquitoes are definitely up and about, pray for an evening breeze. Marmots also started showing up towards the end of the trip. Weather is really warm, things are melting fast.

sorry the photos are rotated oddly. I didn't have the dedication to fix the rotation.

temple crag

mt sill from gayley camp


approach to the swiss arete (taken right from the start of the route)

bergschrund (rotated 90 degrees). it was about 10ft wide and 15ft tall, but there was a snow bridge in the morning and we rapped in the afternoon. Everything is snow, no ice.


U and V notches. We didn't observe any rockfall down either of them, but there was a big loose, wet slide on the north side of Thunderbolt on July 7 evening (not the North couloir, some smaller one). U-notch is 40deg tops except the very top has a 60 deg section that can be avoided by getting on rock on climber's right. We were happy to climb it in the morning, but avoided it on the descent because everything was so soft. We carried one tool and one ice axe each.


North Pal's ridge. All ridges are snow free.

Cheers!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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