Another rope solo setup to critique


Original Post
Josh Gates · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

I practiced my new setup on my 8" wall in the backyard. Most is pretty much the same as the Petzl advice, some is a little new. I'd love any and all feedback on the setups and procedures that seem to work OK during my practice, but which may unintentionally kill me :)

Anchor setup possibilities (all bolt anchors), depending on particulars of situation and whether I'll be belaying anybody normal-style after I climb solo (like my kid):

Setup for normal climbing (on one strand):

   

Procedure stuff and setup details:

I'm attaching the Microtraxion and Ascension on the rope, engaged, before clipping biners into them, then checking after the first move to be sure that they're capturing, to be double-sure that they're not disabled.

Differences from Petzl include using belay biners on both devices and regular locker on tie-in points for attaching dogbone - Petzl uses quicklinks for all three - and using two shoulder-length slings to keep Microtraxion on my chest

I have an ATC in the "captured" section of the belay biner on the top device (makes for a really easy transition to rappel, extending the rappel nicely).

Tie overhands on bights on climbing strand, below Ascension, occasionally

Climb, climb, climb, get to the anchor...

Go in direct with PAS (Connect Adjust Lanyard, here)

Setting up the rappel from top of route:

   

Take weight off the rope, hang on PAS

Unlock Ascension, pull up rope through it, lock it again

Unlock Microtraxion and disable it, pull up rope through it, open biner, put two strands through gate, move Microtraxion through loop in ATC, bring ATC up to normal rap position, lock it down

Set up autoblock on biner at on belay loop, cinch ATC and autoblock up, with slack below autoblock, above (still locked) Ascension

Put weight on rappel by lengthening Adjust Connect (it's great for this!), until I'm on rappel. 

Remove PAS, rack it

Disable Ascenion, leave it where it is, with rope sliding through

Bailing on the route - assume that we're hanging on the one strand, via the devices

Tie 8 on bight on the unused strand, as high up as I can reach

Anchor PAS into bight, transfer weight onto it, leaving primary strand slack

   

Disable traxion, pull slack through ascension as above

Set up rappel on ATC, both strands (below bight, obv)

Set up autoblock as before, slowly transfer weight onto rappel as above, remove PAS, leave bight there (next attempt could clear it on the way up or on rap down, if send happens

Any issues with setups or procedures? I think that I've covered everything from various threads here, but want to make sure. Keeping the ATC engaged and using the dogbone to extend the rappel isn't something that I've seen anyone do, it really speeds up the process, and I don't see any safety issues with it.

Thanks,

jg

Nate Doyle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

Differences from Petzl include using belay biners on both devices and regular locker on tie-in points for attaching dogbone - Petzl uses quicklinks for all three - and using two shoulder-length slings to keep Microtraxion on my chest

I haven't finished reading but, a tiny correction specifically in what you wrote in bold, if I may:

Petzl suggests using one GO (P15 SS Quicklink a.k.a. a maillon) for attaching the Express 17cm dogbone to the two harness tie in points. They then suggest two different OK M33(A) carabiners. One TL (twist-lock) and one SL (screw-lock). I have no idea why they do this though, I assume using two different styles of carabiners somehow helps to keep your head in the game; maybe similar to how they want you to use two different devices so you can't screw up twice (not sure why they don't suggest using two TLs though, since those are auto closing. Anyway...)

Two Rope setup (one example; other examples on their site use the same OK TL/SL and GO setup too)

Single Rope setup (same OK TL/SL with GO etc.)

Note: I'm only correcting what you wrote since that was incorrect from what I've seen in those articles. I'm not addressing your setup as of yet; I still need to finish reading your post.

Nate Doyle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

Setup for normal climbing

I grudgingly use the $6 GO Quicklink. I make the assumption the people at Petzl are smarter than I and that they suggest it for a reason. To each their own, however.

Setting up the rappel from top of route:

I'd extend the rappel. I don't like seeing the belay device so close to your autoblock. Also, I can't really say why but, I'd be weary of having the Microtraxion on my belay device biner while I'm rappelling. The slight possibility of the edge rubbing on my rope? No thanks. And for that matter, I'd remove the Ascension too. It only takes a second to put the Ascension on your harness and back on again. So little space where you have your autoblock makes me nervous.

Yeah yeah, I know, I'm probably being overly cautious but, better safe than sorry™? But again, to each their own. And I realize your setup is quicker and I can appreciate such a thing for getting in more laps.

Josh Gates · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks for the correction.  I bought the maillon, but had trouble getting the tie in points and dog bone into it all at once. 

Yeah,  it wouldn't take long to pop the micro onto a biner and rack it. I'll take another look at possible issues with the ascension and auto block next time I set up. The reason that it's so close to the ATC is that it's engaged in the photo.  I had normal range of movement while I was rapping down,  I felt,  but I will definitely check it again. 

Thanks!

jg

Alex R · · Golden · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

One thing to keep in mind if you are using a dynamic rope is rope stretch. For bailing, if strand one is weighted, with a meter of rope stretch, you will need to ascend approximately two meters on strand two (one meter of rope stretch on the now weighted strand two, and one meter to unweight strand one). This only becomes an apparent if you are free hanging and a good deal away from the anchor, which won't be the case in your practice setup.

Jplotz · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 505

That's a lot of...stuff.

Josh Gates · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Oooh... good call, Alex. I'll try this out at the local crag, 4 feet off the deck. 

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 50

I don't rope solo, so I'll let others comment on that, but in your second and third pics (with the magic X), I see you have 2 lockers in the X. With that being the case, and given that you use limiter knots, why configure them in a magic X at all? As long as you have limiter knots, I'd be inclined to hook each biner into a separate strand, similar to an equallette. You still get the same level of redundancy, but it equalizes better since you don't get the "clutching" effect of the magic X.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply