Where's the most worthy rock? Nearest to North Hampton Mass, Mount Tom ?


Original Post
Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 85

When I put  "Mount Tom mass"  into the search I was sent to this link 

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/105831086/old-climbingbouldercom-articles#ForumMessage-105831107

I seem to remember something ? Is there worthy rock that needs to be visited in an afternoon  on an overnight trip ?

Mike Collins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

if you are talking about climbing there is a bunch of stuff that is less than an hour from that area. The biggest would be farley, but there are some other good options out there. check here for info on some of the spots. http://www.climbgneiss.org/our-crags/

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 85
Mike Collins wrote:

if you are talking about climbing there is a bunch of stuff that is less than an hour from that area. The biggest would be farley, but there are some other good options out there. check here for info on some of the spots. http://www.climbgneiss.org/our-crags/

Hey yes, Mike., thank you !

I mean Rock, & I did not look it up,  And I kind of knew it -but for all the time I might have, -On the chance- for all it is worth I'll have shoes, bag D'vys/'biners*, along just in case.  My chances of going places to climb have been reduced so this opportunity had to be checked out  

Yes, I'll be in The hart of that Happy Valley !

So, I was checking, Let's see ? Just in case ? to see if in the woods behind the hotel or something? It is the most off chance thing.

 Also, This, from way back

 - There is some super high Quality Stone around  Northampton; North &North-West (both) just a  20 minute drive / 20minute walk ->, "ther's Gold in them there hills! - Pure Gold! - I tell yah"* 

*so said The Eastern  Stone Pirate '-)lord of Wesrten Mass,)> A.R

Russ Keane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 90

what in the freaking world??  

Andrew O'Brien · · newport · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

Farley and rose ledge are both definitely worth visiting 

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Hi Michael,  If you'll be in this area give me a shout and I'll try and get free and climb with you. To answer your specific questions there is a lot of impressive-looking exposed rock on Mt. Tom  BUT it is 90% (being optimistic) crap-very shattered traprock and well-protected by PI, horrible loose scree, and a goodly population of snakes. While I know that occasionally folks have climbed there--and there likely is a section or 2 of decent rock, given the other quality stone in the area it very much isn't worth the effort--even for an inveterate explorer. I've heard of some reasonable bouldering potential in places on the lower slopes but not yet found it. In winter a few ice climbs sometimes form up and are more popular. The situation is similar across the river in the Holyoke Range, though there one reasonable section of rock has seen a fair amount of activity on Skinner Mountain--but still not worth a special trip. There are actually a couple of small--very small--granite outcrops in wooded sections of Northampton itself, though rarely visited. On the west (Northampton) side of the river the most accessible crag is Chapel Ledge in Ashfield--about a 1/2 hour drive--a pleasant mostly slabby granite cliff--best for beginners but with a few more challenging routes as well. The closest on the east side of the river--about 20 minutes from Northampton is the small Sunbowl in Sunderland--pocketed conglomerate. Best of course are the gneiss crags further northeast--Farley, Rose, Mormon Hollow--all about a 45 minute drive.    Alan

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 85
Alan Rubin wrote:

Hi Michael,  If you'll be in this area give me a shout and I'll try and get free and climb with you. To answer your specific questions there is a lot of impressive-looking exposed rock on Mt. Tom  BUT it is 90% (being optimistic) crap-very shattered traprock and well-protected by PI, horrible loose scree, and a goodly population of snakes. While I know that occasionally folks have climbed there--and there likely is a section or 2 of decent rock, given the other quality stone in the area it very much isn't worth the effort--even for an inveterate explorer. I've heard of some reasonable bouldering potential in places on the lower slopes but not yet found it. In winter a few ice climbs sometimes form up and are more popular. The situation is similar across the river in the Holyoke Range, though there one reasonable section of rock has seen a fair amount of activity on Skinner Mountain--but still not worth a special trip. There are actually a couple of small--very small--granite outcrops in wooded sections of Northampton itself, though rarely visited. On the west (Northampton) side of the river the most accessible crag is Chapel Ledge in Ashfield--about a 1/2 hour drive--a pleasant mostly slabby granite cliff--best for beginners but with a few more challenging routes as well. The closest on the east side of the river--about 20 minutes from Northampton is the small Sunbowl in Sunderland--pocketed conglomerate. Best of course are the gneiss crags further northeast--Farley, Rose, Mormon Hollow--all about a 45 minute drive.    Alan

Alan, hehe!  & yes, I was trolling for you Thank you. 

glad to see the great advise, and that it was what I was thinking of. I haven't been climbing in the area since before my own college days 30 years ago. Skinner, while a good call was to in the trees for the night ops, but Chapel Falls & Ledge are perfect ,band I recall them as a fun place. The plan has been to climb from moon rise, Then we heard of  the recent tragedy in California of George Wu, fell while soling The Truogh ?,! So that pushed that thought aside. Even with a partner, all-night climbing, as an off the couch activity, & in strange long forgotten area seems to foolhardy after hearing that. . 

 I'll be in touch if the time to put in a good day comes up again. 

edit : ( Russ Keane? Do we know one another? If so it was a last minute post as a shout out that I'll be driving past some great rock , with no plan.  I've climbed all over the north east, at some of the smallest least visited rocks )

I have FA's at every one of thes locations, , , , https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/113295369/google-earth-hi-def-makes-it-to-the-gunks

Russ Keane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 90

Very hard to decipher.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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