Help me save my trip


Original Post
Brandon H - SC · · Jackson SC · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 30

I had planned to fly into Jackson WY for the Tetons to do the Grand Traverse but they are at 200% snowpack and so 

I think I need to change my flights July 15-23 to come into Denver. Will have a car

Can anyone help me find awesome multipitch trad ideas that aren't subject to raptor closures? Mainly after adventure views and exposure so 5.7 to 5.9. 5.10 is fine if well protected. I happily climb 10 at home but I'm a bit more cautious when I'm half way across the country (no R or poorly protected 5.10)

Save my trip guys/girls!!!

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Brandon H - SC wrote:

I had planned to fly into Jackson WY for the Tetons to do the Grand Traverse but they are at 200% snowpack and so 

I think I need to change my flights July 15-23 to come into Denver. Will have a car

Can anyone help me find awesome multipitch trad ideas that aren't subject to raptor closures? Mainly after adventure views and exposure so 5.7 to 5.9. 5.10 is fine if well protected. I happily climb 10 at home but I'm a bit more cautious when I'm half way across the country (no R or poorly protected 5.10)

Save my trip guys/girls!!!

Denver? There's a crap ton of what you're looking for - Eldorado canyon, Boulder canyon, the Flatirons, Lumpy Ridge, et al. 

Perhaps do some research on your own first and then ask more specific questions?

will smith · · boulder · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 35

Using route finder can give you some ideas

Brandon H - SC · · Jackson SC · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 30

I was thinking about ElDorado Canyon

Are there significant raptor closures there?

And I have to change my flight I'm like 2-3 days max so any help is great. Time crunch here

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Brandon H - SC wrote:

I was thinking about ElDorado Canyon

Are there significant raptor closures there?

And I have to change my flight I'm like 2-3 days max so any help is great. Time crunch here

Dunno about any closures, but are you planning on camping? There is basically no camping within a 1/2 hour of Boulder. See other threads on Boulder camping if that's your plan.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/110371760/camping-options-near-boulder

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/109082367/boulder-car-camping

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Brandon H - SC wrote:

I was thinking about ElDorado Canyon

Are there significant raptor closures there?

If only there was some kind of on-line search tool.....

http://bfy.tw/CjPz

BoulderCharles · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 80

Most of Eldorado Canyon will be hot unless you start very early. You can do a day there and hit the shaded Bastille routes: Bastille Crack, Werksupp, and (for acceptably-well protected 5.10) Outer Space and the top pitch of March of Dimes. Beyond that, look up in Estes, like Lumpy Ridge (get an early start as it gets busy). Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek are good sport climbing days closer to Denver (with some trad mixed in). If you're up for it, you can even try a day of alpine in RMNP. Petit Grepon, Sharkstooth, and Notchtop are fun with great exposure and moderate climbing (generally avoid on the weekend).

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Marc801 C wrote:

If only there was some kind of on-line search tool.....

http://bfy.tw/CjPz

Asking people to do their own research is a bit demanding, don't you think, Marc? Next thing you know,  people will ask where they should go on vacation...oh, wait, that already happens.

Jeremy Justus · · Steamboat Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

I'm sure some other people on here have more and better suggestions but i can name a few that ive done that are right up your alley. 

Chickenhead (5.8) at devil's head, pitch 2 had some fun and exposed juggy moves and it's a great top out with a good view of pikes peak. But all devil's head climbs have a pretty good view of it and there's plenty to explore. Also great camping all along rampart range road on the way out.

North ridge of Montezuma's tower (5.7) has two pitches but I felt sent well at 1, just had to place some extra pro at the top to keep the rope from getting stuck in the crack. Awesome exposure on a really thin ridge onto a really cool tower, I think it's listed on top 50 climbs in the country? Avoid on weekends.

The first flatiron is open and has lots of routes on it, haven't done it yet but the plan is to do the direct route (5.6 R) on Thursday. Probably another one to avoid on weekends.

Next on my to do list is the notchtop in RMNP and the ellingwood ledges up to the crestone needle (a 14er), both of which im sure you'd enjoy but i think are full day outings

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
FrankPS wrote:

Asking people to do their own research is a bit demanding, don't you think, Marc? Next thing you know,  people will ask where they should go on vacation...oh, wait, that already happens.

I know. I'm kinda old school that way. BTW, this rock climbing thing seems cool. What kind of stuff do I need to do El Cap? Oh, and where is this El Cap thing anyway?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Marc801 C wrote:

I know. I'm kinda old school that way. BTW, this rock climbing thing seems cool. What kind of stuff do I need to do El Cap? Oh, and where is this El Cap thing anyway?

I want you to find California, first, then I'll tell you where this "El Cap" is. I don't want to spoon-feed you, but "California" is one of the fifty states. Ready, go!

Bonus info: For rock climbing, all you need is a PAS. 

Old lady H · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 265

Brandon, just avoid Colorado on the weekends. 

Marc is probably crabby because he's stuck in the same hell as Boise: 98-104° since, I can't remember how long, and the same for...apparently for ever, by the extended forecast. Our new "normal".

I don't know in his case, but I am not getting 'it" enough, and yes, any "it" at all. 

Not climbing makes me the ugliest, though.

OLH, still awaiting kidnapping and forced deep water soloing. Sigh.

Old lady H · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 265

Frank and Marc, if your sorry assez ever meander by Boise, do say howdy. It'd be fun to give you shit in person.

Best, H.

Actually, MP climbing friends, my favorite thing is meeting you people. Consider it an invite, if you are in the neighborhood and feeling brave?

grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Classic, asking MP to plan your whole vacation for you. Not a very good use of the forums. A better way OP, is to do a little research and then ask us about specific areas. 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Old lady H wrote:

Marc is probably crabby because he's stuck in the same hell as Boise: 98-104° since, I can't remember how long, and the same for...apparently for ever, by the extended forecast. Our new "normal".

I will happily help anyone I can if there's information I know. I kinda draw the line at people who have obviously expended zero effort on researching their trip or whatever. Especially when they attach a time limit. Here the OP is one week out and adding pressure because he has a small window for changing his ticket, and that the Tetons were at 200% of normal snowpack wasn't exactly a secret or something that wasn't known 3 months ago. Sorry dude, poor planning on your part doesn't constitute an emergency on our part. 

Old lady H · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 265
Marc801 C wrote:

I will happily help anyone I can if there's information I know. I kinda draw the line at people who have obviously expended zero effort on researching their trip or whatever. Especially when they attach a time limit. Here the OP is one week out and adding pressure because he has a small window for changing his ticket, and that the Tetons were at 200% of normal snowpack wasn't exactly a secret or something that wasn't known 3 months ago. Sorry dude, poor planning on your part doesn't constitute an emergency on our part. 

Hey, Marc, what was this past winter like in SC? Our local guys are asking each other for beta on snow conditions, from those who have just been...where ever, because past experience is totally out the window this year. Some of these are the people who put up the technical alpine climbs in the first place. 

I don't disagree, exactly, that yes, he could do his own research, but people rattle on (yes me too) about much stupider things than this guys trip. Besides, he has come back with some ideas, and is in the process of back and forth with those who are feeling kindly. 

Locals, their kindness and knowledge, are how he won't waste time by looking at some place too low in elevation, and, too hot,for example. Mountain people know that, it isn't a "secret" either, but not exactly obvious if your experience is with a state whose elevation could probably only be found in an abandoned mine, in CO.

Best, OLH

Zac St. Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,133
Marc801 C wrote:

I will happily help anyone I can if there's information I know. I kinda draw the line at people who have obviously expended zero effort on researching their trip or whatever. Especially when they attach a time limit. Here the OP is one week out and adding pressure because he has a small window for changing his ticket, and that the Tetons were at 200% of normal snowpack wasn't exactly a secret or something that wasn't known 3 months ago. Sorry dude, poor planning on your part doesn't constitute an emergency on our part. 

Chill out dude. The fella is just asking for some suggestions. 

Edited to add: One star for High E? You would. 

Brandon H - SC · · Jackson SC · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 30

Thanks for valuable info I've received in this thread

Thoughts like avoiding certain areas on weekends and places being too hot are invaluable and can't always be gleaned from a guidebook 

To the salty bunch. Stay salty my friends 

Brandon H - SC · · Jackson SC · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 30

How is Capitol Peak in mid July?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Zac St. Jules wrote:

Chill out dude. The fella is just asking for some suggestions. 

I believe I offered 4 in my first reply - and asked that he narrow things down a bit and ask some specific questions.

Edited to add: One star for High E? You would. 

Yeah, a fantastic accomplishment for Kraus, and the step around is spectacular, but it's basically 40' of steep jug bashing atop 150' of meh. Madam G's, Middle Earth, and Limelight are far, far better 5.6's.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 525

The grand traverse might be wonderful with the extra snow covering some of the otherwise unavoidable rubble, and cragging in Eldo, great as it is, is surely a very different type of undertaking.  I think the main issue for the gt might be icing on the North Ridge of the Grand.  I'd call the Jenny Lake Ranger station (307.739.3343, 8-5pm MST) and see if they have any up-to-date beta (there is currently none on the blog for the North ridge).

If the North ridge of the Grand is seriously iced, there are still several attractive alternatives accessible from places along the Valhalla traverse (which is also probably better snow-covered than when it gets down to the desperate mud and ice patch stage).  Think maybe the Enclosure Couloir and then up the NW ridge of the Enclosure and detour around the bottom of the O-S via the Wittich Crack.  Not as attractive but certainly possible would be to go all the way across the Valhalla traverse and up the Owen-Spaulding.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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