Bar Harbor Maine Recommendations


Original Post
Ken Graf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

I will be traveling to Bar Harbor in the near future and have the opportunity to get on some routes in the area with someone who has all requisite area knowledge and equipment. I am a moderate climber (lead 5.8 outdoors/follow 5.10 outdoors). Looking for best place to go for best "bang for the buck". Single pitch/multi-pitch suggestions both welcome.

I have heard GREAT things about Otter Cliffs but do not necessarily want to limit myself by default. 

Thoughts!? 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

Precipice Wall and the 

South Wall, both on Champlain Mountain. 

mikejohnson1 Johnson · · Essex Junction, VT · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 345

Second Precipice. Some good stuff there. Watch for the falcon closures, but they are typically clearly marked.

wonderwoman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 84

Old Town at Precipice is a MUST do.  There are so many good climbs at that cliff.  Have a great time!

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Otter Cliff is a great place for a day, though can be crowded. The prime venue on the island is The Precipice (or South Wall) on Mt. Champlain--not a sea cliff but overlooking the ocean anyway. One to 3 pitch climbs on excellent granite with a good range of grades with many in the grades you mention--Old Town, Gunklandia, Return to Forever, Chitlin Corner, Recollections of Pacifica are among the top classics in those grades.  It is a quick walk in from the Park loop road. More inland, South Bubble over Jordan Pond has several pleasant 2-3 pitch moderates featuring slabs low and finishing with cracks through a steeper headwall. Otter is a very 'low-commitment' sea cliff, near by (on the far side of Sand Beach) Great Head is a much more serious endeavor but features a classic 5.8+ (Morning Glory), which requires a rap in/climb out approach--do it on a calm day. There are other areas but this should get you going. Grant Simmons guidebook is available locally and has all the info you need. A great place, we go every year, plenty to do and see in addition to the climbing--enjoy.

Ken Graf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks everyone!!

Ken Graf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

Did South Wall, it was awesome :)

Django Skorupa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 15

If you're looking for bouldering, I just got back from Bar Harbor with some friends and that was all we did. Beech Cliffs has some wild places to fool around, as does Otter Cliffs. My buddy set a new route at Charlotte's Corner that I'm looking to add here. 

Ken Graf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0
Django Skorupa wrote:

If you're looking for bouldering, I just got back from Bar Harbor with some friends and that was all we did. Beech Cliffs has some wild places to fool around, as does Otter Cliffs. My buddy set a new route at Charlotte's Corner that I'm looking to add here. 

Actually hiked Beech Mountain with the kids but didn't bring my shoes up the trail (doh!) I managed to give the big boulder in the parking lot a shot but could not manage to find a workable route up the entire face in the few mintes I had (at least not in my skill level lol)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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