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Arcteryx procline climbing performance? Warmth?


Original Post
Bogdan P · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 248

Hey, if anybody has used the arc'teryx procline ski mountaineering boot and can comment on their climbing performance I'd greatly appreciate it. Lots of people online commenting on their ski performance with disclaimers that the commentators are not serious climbers, which kind of misses the point in my book. I'd like to hear from some people who have actually used this boot for what it's meant to do.

One thing I'm especially curious about things like warmth. I'd like to use them as a quiver of one for winter climbing in Chamonix (e.g. Argentiere north faces) and am specifically wondering how the warmth compares to a double boot like the Scarpa Phantom 6000s.

Also, has anybody had problems with bootfitters trying to work around the climbing specific features like the integrated gaiter or the rubber toe cap?

Thanks

Kevin Mcbride · · Nelson · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 160

I only have a bit of experience with them but they feel like a slightly better koflach boot. They definitely dont climb as nicely as my acrux ar's.

Martin le Roux · · Superior, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 234

In walk mode they definitely have better sideways flexibility at the ankle than any other AT boot that I've owned. But but I agree with Kevin that the ankles aren't as flexible as regular mountaineering boots.

They're quite warm, but not as warm as Scarpa Phantom 6000s. The toe box is much slimmer (see photo) so there's not as much room for insulating material. However, you could use them with insulated supergaiters if conditions are very cold. Make sure you get the "support" liner, not the thinner "lite" liner.

Be aware that they have quite a narrow last compared to the Scarpas. Many people have found that they're not wide enough or that that the fit is quite tight. That's fine for downhill skiing but not so good for keeping your toes warm when climbing.

Doug Hutchinson · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 95

A boot fitter put four punches in each of my Proclines and they are holding fine. According to this boot fitter (Evo in Seattle), they have punched many of them and they are realtively easy to work with.

They really aren't warm with the stock liner - about as warm as a lightweight single boot, colder than Phantom Techs. After punching, I upgraded the liner to a mid-volume Intuition liner and like the Proclines a lot more.

As others have said, they climb pretty good but not as well as a real ice boot. But they tour uphill really well, their range of motion is amazing..

Ben Stabley · · Portland, OR · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 171

You might try a vapor barrier. Haley wrote about his recent solo ascent of Begguya that he can get away with a less warm boot by using VB socks. https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/News/2017-6-5/Colin-Haley-s-Begguya-Kit#.WWMAeojysbU

Sorry I can't help with the proclines, though. I couldn't even wear them cause the instep/arch is way too flat for my foot.

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 162

I use a pair, as do several of my climbing partners.  I find that they climb quite well, although not as well as my normal boot, which is a Scarpa Phantom Guide.  If I'm comfortable leading WI4 and M5 in my Scarpas, I dial it back a little bit for the Proclines, maybe like WI3/3+ and M4.  So stuff at my limit I still use my mountain boots, but I don't climb a lot of that stuff on skimo missions anyway.


They are narrow, but a fitter should be able to get you set up.

Bogdan P · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 248

Thanks for the feedback everyone. It's been helpful.

One more question that I've started wondering about, when you fit these things, how much room do you leave for your toes? I feel like I want more room for my toes in ice boots than ski boots, and that if I fit these like ski boots I'll be bashing my toes in when front pointing. Has anybody had any problems like this with a ski boot like fit?

GearGuy 316 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0
Bogdan P wrote:

Thanks for the feedback everyone. It's been helpful.

One more question that I've started wondering about, when you fit these things, how much room do you leave for your toes? I feel like I want more room for my toes in ice boots than ski boots, and that if I fit these like ski boots I'll be bashing my toes in when front pointing. Has anybody had any problems like this with a ski boot like fit?

I would like to know this as well. 

Do those of you who climb, leave room (ie. size up 1/2 size like you would for Hiking or Mountaineering Boots) and sacrifice ski performance (especially with looser heel and ankle hold) for a more comfortable hike and climb experience?

Ben Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

For extra warmth in AT boots, the 40 below overboots are also an option. My whole team used them on Denali along with front-bail crampons and had no issues with cold or crampons coming off. Boots used were Scarpa F1, Atomic Backland, and Fischer Transalp.

I bought my F1s for Denali a shell size bigger than my other scarpa ski boots (Maestrale), for extra warmth. They ski pretty well in typical ski-mountaineering conditions (hard snow, spring snow, wind-buff) as well as light powder. The only conditions where I really cursed the oversized boots was trying to ski deep heavy powder with too-narrow skis - I could definitely feel my feet shifting a bit when muscling through the heavy mank. 

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 10
GearGuy 316 wrote:

I would like to know this as well. 

Do those of you who climb, leave room (ie. size up 1/2 size like you would for Hiking or Mountaineering Boots) and sacrifice ski performance (especially with looser heel and ankle hold) for a more comfortable hike and climb experience?

I've been trying to figure this out too. Nobody near me stocks these boots so I'm going to have to order them. I'm thinking I'll try a half size over my usual mondo ski boot size. Arc's customer service wasn't particularly helpful: 

"You wouldn't want to ice climb with these boots.  They are more designed for short rock or mixed routes and long ski approaches rather than for ice climbing.

Also, when ice climbing, you do not want too much room in the toebox because each time you kick into the ice, your toes would slam to the front of your shoes and this would cause a lot of pain, especially when your toes are cold.  A snug, comfortable fit is the best for ice climbing (and for ski boots).

Regards,

Arc'teryx Service Team"

DCarey · · Missoula · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 15

"You wouldn't want to ice climb with these boots.  They are more designed for short rock or mixed routes and long ski approaches rather than for ice climb

Dang! That is the only reason I want the boot. Anyway, this guy seems to like climbing in them. 

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web17w/ms-arcteryx-procline-boots

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 10

Yeah that's why I'm looking at them too. I'm not sure that person answering emails has done a lot of climbing. Or maybe I've just been fitting my mountaineering boots incorrectly, but a snug fit like a ski boot seems like a bad idea. 

Bogdan P · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 248

@jdejace, the arc'teryx service team clearly has no idea what they're talking about.

I went with the atomic backlands in the end because the arc'teryx shell didn't fit. That said my fitting strategy may be helpful for the arc'teryx too. I shell fit my boots for two fingers behind the heal, got intuition liners in a size smaller (pro tour, medium volume version) and heat molded them with a custom orthotic. This resulted in a very good fit as you might imagine, and it holds my foot in place pretty well, even without tightening the bottom buckle down too much. There is absolutely no slop or play so far as I can tell, but at the same time there's still room in my toebox. So shell fit for two fingers, and getting a pro tour liner that you can heat mold, but in a size smaller than your shell, and with a medium volume fill, may be your ticket. Custom orthotics would probably also help.

I haven't done any ice climbing in them yet, but the wiggle room is similar to my mountain boot fits. Did some snow climbing in them for what it's worth and didn't notice any toe bashing.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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