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Big walls in the tetons?


Original Post
Erik Young · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 10

Is there any grade V climbing in and around Grand Teton National Park? Has anyone done a multi-day climb in this area?

t.farrell · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 60

Nobody has ever done a multi day climb in Grand Teton National Park. Ever.

Mike Womack · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,545

No Big walls, but big climbs yes as well as linkups, traverses, yes. 

Grand Traverse:    https://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-grand-traverse/106565238  

Full exum ridge is about 2000' feet of climbing I think?   https://www.mountainproject.com/v/lower-exum-ridge/105839153  , https://www.mountainproject.com/v/upper-exum-ridge/105933562

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
t.farrell wrote:

Nobody has ever done a multi day climb in Grand Teton National Park. Ever.

You're misunderstanding the difference between a grade V or VI rock climb and a summit that involves approach, bivi, climb, descent.

Doug Hemken · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 5,597

Certainly on Moran.  See the AAJ.

t.farrell · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 60
Marc801 C wrote:

You're misunderstanding the difference between a grade V or VI rock climb and a summit that involves approach, bivi, climb, descent.

More just being an ass. I apologize 

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 410

Do the entire NW Ridge of the Enclosure and link it to the W Face of the Grand. That would be big. 

Nicholas Aretz · · Lakewood, Colorado · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 55
t.farrell wrote:

Nobody has ever done a multi day climb in Grand Teton National Park. Ever.

Are you forgetting the number 1 rule of MP?

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, Texas · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,950

I think most you'll find will be a IV.   Simply not enough continuous stone to earn a V.

DCarey · · Missoula · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 15

Direct South Buttress on Moran. Completing it all the way to the summit might warrant a V grade.  

trailridge · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 20

I think the Jenny lake boulders are rated V something. 

luke smith · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 50

Moran has some Grade V  but generally no one does proper Grade V rock climbs in the Tetons like you would find in Yosemite.  It's an alpine zone and people don't really bother to hang out on a wall overnight if they can help it- the rock is not conducive to hauling stuff and those of us who have been benighted know that even in July and August it gets cold hanging out on the side of a wall.  Death Canyon has some long pure rock climbs, especially the south side of the canyon has some seldom done climbs but again they're 2000' max, not really V's.  

Martin le Roux · · Superior, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 234

Just to confirm ddriver's and DCarey's comments, the Ortenburger-Jackson guidebook rates both the NW Ridge of the Enclosure and the Direct S Buttress on Moran as grade V. A couple of other grade Vs in that book are the Jackson-Kimbrough Contortion on the Grand Teton (variation to the NW Chimney) and the Revolutionary Crest on Moran, if climbed to the summit.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 13,812
Erik Young wrote:

Is there any grade V climbing in and around Grand Teton National Park? Has anyone done a multi-day climb in this area?

There's a number of grade V's...Beyer's Lookin' for Trouble.  Direct South Buttress on Moran.

I think most of the early classics were done over the course of a number of trips, some, multi day and certainly from high camps either on or near the routes.

Consider that the East Ridge of the Grand is "only" a grade III, but, if you belayed most of the route, it'd be over 20 pitches (I counted!).

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 743

How was the East Ridge of the Grand Brian in SLC? That's the next route on the mountain I'd like to check out.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 13,812
Greg Gavin wrote:

How was the East Ridge of the Grand Brian in SLC? That's the next route on the mountain I'd like to check out.

Its a fantastic classic...of course!

Given the snowpack, it'll probably be in good condition.  Nice to have water for a bivy above the moraine.  Also nice to have the upper snowfield traverse be fat.

The climbing is never hard, rock is great, position outstanding.  Route finding and weaving in and around the towers is fun.

Skibo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 5

The Tricky Traverse on the East Ridge is a fun option.  Overall an outstanding route.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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