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Scarpa Instinct VS or drago?


Original Post
Johannes AH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

I am looking for a new pair of climbing shoes. I have had a pair of solutions and skwamas before. Loved both, although the heel were a bit loose (skwama), and the lacing system on the solutions broke twice. Therefore I am looking for advice regarding the scarpa instinct vs (or vsr?)  and the dragos. Thanks in advance! 

Kasper Gram · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

 I own both, and i love them. But they are AS different AS performance shoes Gets. Instincts are hard edgers and dragos are super soft. I would recommend getting both. 

So it really depends om what you want in a shoe?

Johannes AH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0
Kasper Gram wrote:

 I own both, and i love them. But they are AS different AS performance shoes Gets. Instincts are hard edgers and dragos are super soft. I would recommend getting both. 

So it really depends om what you want in a shoe?

I see... Currently I'm almost exclusively bouldering, both indoors and outdoors. For that, the skwamas has worked great, except for the heel, and the fact that the whole shoe can feel loose sometimes. 

I've heard that the dragos are a good "all-rounder", but I'm also worried about the thin and soft rubber (is it going to wear out quickly?). Do you know about any training shoes that don't cost a lot of money? If so, that might be something to consider buying as well as the performance pair. 

Andrewww · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 620

You could try a pair of MadRock Sharks for your training shoe. I have a buddy who loves them and he also wears Dragos. The sharks can be had for sub-$100 usually. 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Yeah, you want a soft, preferably flat, durable shoe for training.  I've seen a lot of people in the sharks, actually...supposed to be pretty comfortable for something completely covered in rubber.  Personally I'm into Moccs/Anasazis.

As far as the original choices: as the above poster said, very different shoes.  The Instincts will climb more like your Solutions or even Miuras, whereas the Magos are much softer.  You'll get more edging power out of the Instincts and be able to grab holds with your feet on overhangs better with the Magos.

Baba Fats · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

I tried the vs and the dragos out at a shoe demo.  From that limited experience, I bought the vs.  the excess rubber on  the dragos was so painfully uncomfortable that I couldn't even down climb from the first problem I tried them on.  The rubber is much softer.  But I would say the instincts are better for all around/ all day wear.  A step up from the vapors

Redyns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 80

i like to train in flip flips.

Kasper Gram · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

I use the vs AS my allround shoe and drago for comps/redpoint

Kinobi Eman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

The Instinct VS have a significant different last than Drago.  And a very different midsole.

IVS are a bit more all-round, while the Drago are ment for bouldering or when a very soft shoe is needed.

The both have a significant coverage of rubber so you need feet used to a certain "pressure" AKA "pain".

It depends what you own already,but IVS are more versatile.

Ciao,

E

Johannes AH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0
Andrewww wrote:

You could try a pair of MadRock Sharks for your training shoe. I have a buddy who loves them and he also wears Dragos. The sharks can be had for sub-$100 usually. 

I just now found out that the 5.10 hiangles are cheaper here than the sharks. Are they any good? How is the heel? 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

HiAngles are fantastic performance shoes.  Closer to Instincts than Dragos, but C4 gets fairly soft and does well on the steeps.  Size up from most other climbing shoes, as 5.10 usually aims for sizing close to your street shoes.  Heel is fairly narrow.

Johannes AH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0
Ted Pinson wrote:

HiAngles are fantastic performance shoes.  Closer to Instincts than Dragos, but C4 gets fairly soft and does well on the steeps.  Size up from most other climbing shoes, as 5.10 usually aims for sizing close to your street shoes.  Heel is fairly narrow.

Nice! How is the toe box btw? Is it very wide?

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

I wouldn't say so, no.  It's on the narrower side, but not extremely so nor is it super asymmetrical like Blackwings.  The upper is also leather, so it conforms a bit.

Johannes AH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0
Ted Pinson wrote:

I wouldn't say so, no.  It's on the narrower side, but not extremely so nor is it super asymmetrical like Blackwings.  The upper is also leather, so it conforms a bit.

Nice, thanks! Do you know how they compare to the skwamas or solutions? 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

I haven't tried Skwamas, but I do own Solutions.  I would say the toebox is a bit narrower and heel/ankle a lot lower volume.  I had to downsize a lot more aggressively in my Solutions compared to HiAngles for a comparable fit. I wear a size 12 in HiAngles, 10.5 in Solutions.  HiAngles are a bit more comfortable, Solutions are a bit better for heel/toe hooking (best shoe I've used for this), though both are pretty close on each front.

Johannes AH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0
Ted Pinson wrote:

I haven't tried Skwamas, but I do own Solutions.  I would say the toebox is a bit narrower and heel/ankle a lot lower volume.  I had to downsize a lot more aggressively in my Solutions compared to HiAngles for a comparable fit. I wear a size 12 in HiAngles, 10.5 in Solutions.  HiAngles are a bit more comfortable, Solutions are a bit better for heel/toe hooking (best shoe I've used for this), though both are pretty close on each front.

Thanks again! I thought that the heel on the solutions was a bit too big, however, it's the one which has fitted my heel the best. The only shoe I've had from 5.10 is the anasazi, with these I had a lot of difficulty with heel hooks... This is a problem for many I've heard? Either way, I think I'll buy the hiangles as a kind of training/performance shoe, and evaluate wether I need the dragos or not (the hiangles were more similar to the instinct vs than the dragos, right?) 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

I'd say so, yeah.  For me it was the ankle that was the problem on the Solutions (same with Miuras).  A lot of Sportiva shoes create huge pockets in that area for me, which was why I downsized so aggressively, but you can get away with it in the Solutions since they're fairly soft.  The Anasazis are pretty baggy in the heel, although the heel on Pink is much better if you are ok with laces.

Johannes AH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0
Ted Pinson wrote:

I'd say so, yeah.  For me it was the ankle that was the problem on the Solutions (same with Miuras).  A lot of Sportiva shoes create huge pockets in that area for me, which was why I downsized so aggressively, but you can get away with it in the Solutions since they're fairly soft.  The Anasazis are pretty baggy in the heel, although the heel on Pink is much better if you are ok with laces.

I see.. Thanks again for your help! 

Baba Fats · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

Out of curiosity, have you looked into the scarpa booster s?  The heel is more snug than either ther instincts or the dragos.  And they are super soft and flexible for steep boulders.  I only bought the instincts over them because that same great of the thin rubber.  But looking back, I'd probably have preferred the boosters.  They downsize extremely comfortably, too.  I wore a 45.5 in the helix, 45 vapor v, 44.5 vs, and the booster s fit great in a 44

the heel is low volume and a bit narrow, but the toe box is wide enough to fit my hobbit feet really well 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Yeah, it's funny...my feet should fit Scarpas perfectly since I have narrow heels and a wide toebox, but for some reason the Instincts just wouldn't work.  Vapor Vs fit brilliantly, though...may have to check out the Boosters.

Baba Fats · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

The heel of my vapors was a bit loose, too. My right foot is about 1/2 to 1/4 sizes smaller than my left, so that heel in the instincts had a tiny amount of play.  But the boosters didn't move around at all 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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