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Best Routes at Thacher


Original Post
MikeH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 762

Opening with more than 50 routes it is hard to know where to start. The star ratings in the guidebook by GunksApps are not fully accurate yet until more data from more climbers comes in. Having been on most of these during the development period here is my very subjective recommendation as to where you should start on your first visit to the area... from the perspective of a 9-10 climber:

Best face routes: 

Permian Extinction 5.10d
Dragon Kite 5.10b
Under the Cedar Tree ~5.10
The Wizard of Schenectady 5.8

Best crack routes: There are not many crack routes at Thacher, but here are the top 3:

Tossin ze Chossin 5.8
Gallifrey 5.9
Little Black Rain Cloud 5.9

Best roof route:
Lucifugus ~5.10

The GunksApps guidebook is available for any smartphone and is pretty easy to obtain. If you have any problems with it not recognizing your purchase of the Thacher guidebook (which has happened in two cases) just delete the app and redownload, and have it resend your code to the same email that you paid with. 

Feel free to recommend your favorite routes in this thread.

Photo: Dragon Kite (center of the face) at sunset






Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 745

Is there any other than the ' Body-shaming' approach?  -  I'm good with it  -  but I'll never get a certain life partner past the 'Squeeze Box'                     ( can it be Short rope'd ?)

Alex CV · · Greater NYC area · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 200

I only spent enough time up there to put up one route (Time, Heat, and Pressure) last summer, so I can't comment on most of the climbs (I only did mine plus Lucifugus and tried Tectonic Shift). 

I wanted to mention that even though this is a sport climbing crag, there is a lot of loose rock in some areas and folks should wear a helmet. Gunkies may be used to wearing one. Just be sure to bring it.

MikeH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 762

There is no other legal way down currently.

Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,411
Michael Schneider wrote:

Is there any other than the ' Body-shaming' approach?  -  I'm good with it  -  but I'll never get a certain life partner past the 'Squeeze Box'                     ( can it be Short rope'd ?)

I'm in the exact same situation.

Bryce Adamson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 598

Thanks. I might go tomorrow. I noticed some odd things (typos?) about the app. Rachel Boo and Rachel Boo variation are both graded 5.5, but if you read the description one is said to have a 5.6 crux and the other is said to go over a 5.8 bulge. 

Nolan Huther · · Clarkson University · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 602
Bryce Adamson wrote:

Thanks. I might go tomorrow. I noticed some odd things (typos?) about the app. Rachel Boo and Rachel Boo variation are both graded 5.5, but if you read the description one is said to have a 5.6 crux and the other is said to go over a 5.8 bulge. 

They tried to give it a Gunks grading but they accidentally gave the real rating in the description

Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,411
Nolan Huther wrote:

They tried to give it a Gunks grading but they accidentally gave the real rating in the description

  

MikeH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 762

If you like crack, here are three recommended lines at Thacher: Tossin ze Chossin, Little Black Rain Cloud and Kipu Crack

Emmett Lyman · · Somerville, MA · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 380

Thatcher is a rad place, Mike- really nice work developing it. Looking forward to spending more time here... preferably not when wet. :-) We're presently enjoying post-climb beers at Indian Ladder. This place has it all!

MikeH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 762

And here are the photos of recommended face routes: Permian Extinction, Totally Chossom, Dragon Kite 

Derrek Anderson · · Albany, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 315

Nice photos Mike, especially dig the Dark Block shot!

Adam Gong · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 20

Had a good look around at Thacher on the 3rd - climbed a few routes and ran into a few TCC members to give thanks to. 

Great place to spend the day - even the views from the belay were amazing.

Definitely chossy in areas; I saw a foothold break off one route and unexpectedly released a handhold into the wild. 

Protect yo hed.. 

Thanks to all the developers and trail blazers!

Zach Swanson · · Newton, MA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 38

What's the development plan going forward? Are more routes at >= 12a anticipated to get bolted?

Will McFarland · · Lebanon, NH · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 279
Zach Swanson wrote:

What's the development plan going forward? Are more routes at >= 12a anticipated to get bolted?

I'm driving down (3 hrs) in 2 weeks to take a look at the rock quality with hopes to bolt some harder stuff there.  However, I think further bolting is on hold park-wide.

Matt Wetmore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 45

Idk if I was missing some crucial beta but while Under the Cedar Tree was a lot of fun it was super stiff for a 10a.   I've done easier 11s elsewhere that are the same style (crimps on a vertical face). The 10a two routes over seemed much more true to the grade. Perhaps some holds broke off?

Still a dope climb but if you usually expect to onsight low 10s prepare to be humbled.

MikeH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 762
Matt Wetmore wrote:

Idk if I was missing some crucial beta but while Under the Cedar Tree was a lot of fun it was super stiff for a 10a.   I've done easier 11s elsewhere that are the same style (crimps on a vertical face). The 10a two routes over seemed much more true to the grade. Perhaps some holds broke off?

Still a dope climb but if you usually expect to onsight low 10s prepare to be humbled.

Hi Matt, That line is pretty clean so it's not likely holds broke off of that one, it was likely rated more like the Gunks. This issue has come up repeatedly so I've started a new thread where you can submit your opinions on ratings there so the GunksApps folks can update the digi guidebook:

 https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/113335855/thacher-ratings-need-your-feedback?search=1&type=forum&method=resultsPage&query=thacher

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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