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Durrance Prereq Climbs

Original Post
Rutherc Rutherfurd · · Draper, UT · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 60

Looking to try for Durrance in August and wondered if anyone had recommendations on prereq climbs. New to OW and am interested in practicing techniques before hopping on it. SLC local but willing to travel farther afield to CoR and Voo (others?) to practice. The upper section of Columbia Crack in CoR comes to mind. Many thanks for any other thoughts or pointers. 


CornCob · · Sandy, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 20

If you just want to work on OW you could try working some of the offwidth boulders in LCC as seen here

Eric Wydeven · · austin, tx · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0

Durrance Route, Devil's Tower?

Rutherc Rutherfurd · · Draper, UT · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 60

Yup! Thanks for the clarification. 

Steve Pulver · · Williston, ND · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 455

IMHO you don't need any offwidth technique for Durrance. The offwidth pitch is more about stemming, 

Eric Wydeven · · austin, tx · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0

That's what I remember, too, stem it and go.  By the time the off width appears you get a pair of cracks to climb and can mix it up to find good jams.  Super fun route.  My first trad climb ever.  

rob.calm · · Loveland, Colorado · Joined May 2002 · Points: 630

Not a bad idea to get up to speed on wider cracks before climbing the Durrance Route. The wide cracks on the Durrance route aren’t that hard, but the route is long. Decades ago, the University of Wyoming Outing Club had TM Chimney (7+) as a prerequisite climb for going to Devils Tower. TM is distinctly harder than anything on Durrance. If you decide to come to Vedauwoo, Mother #1, Lower (the left of the 2 lower Slots), Upper Slot, and Handjacker   in the 7 to 7+ range will meet your needs.


OrganicChemistry · · Tucson · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 95

rack left on the crux pitch and go for it. 

you don't need any OW experience to climb Durrance .

Justin Meyer · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2012 · Points: 51

I can't speak to climbs to train on but I will say that having a number 5 c4 and walking it up the crack in places was confidence inspiring for me.

Travis Bieber · · Spearfish, SD · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 30

Nothing can prepare you for the butt kicking of a life time while climbing Durance. Just pray you don't die

Rick Lewis · · Indianapolis, IN · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 50

You dont really need much training for the offwidth, just know how to jam those shoulders in. Dont carry a pack (haul if you must), and use that number 5 for the extra security. 

Arjun Dongre · · Newton, NC · Joined May 2008 · Points: 0

The heat in August is what you should be concerned with. Take plenty of water.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

certainly Durrance did not have a #5......  Is my memory correct.  Didn't fritz lead the wide pitch on the Durrance first??

grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Wait and climb it next June

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Lol.  Don't start that again...

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 50

It may be one of those "if you have to ask the question - you already know the answer".  The route takes good pro - and no special climbing techniques - go for it and have fun.  You can always bail if necessary (but it won't be I'm sure).

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

"Fritz" didn't do the Durrance, he climbed a totally different crack system---wider, harder, more sustained and hairier than anything on the Durrance--hence MUCH less frequently climbed--and his only protection on the climb--or at least the crux pitch--was his ability.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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