James Pearson breaks wire nut on "Le Voyage" FA


Original Post
baldclimber · · Ottawa, Ontario, Canada · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

You don't often see reports of failed wires on nuts - more often than not you hear about small cams that break.  James Pearson gives us a look at a failed Wild Country #2 Superlight Rock (6kN): jump to 47 seconds in

edited: grammar

Dana Bartlett · · CT · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 890

Happens once in a while; two incidents I remeber in the 'Gunks. 

David Deville · · Flagstaff, Arizona · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 10

Spooky! Wow, I gotta say, the vocal support from the [photographer]? during the send is top notch! Wish I had that voice calmly telling me how every move I do is great, not to forget to breathe, just try my best, etc.... 

Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 63

Cool video.

aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 200
DLDeville wrote:

Spooky! Wow, I gotta say, the vocal support from the [photographer]? during the send is top notch! Wish I had that voice calmly telling me how every move I do is great, not to forget to breathe, just try my best, etc.... 

On the other hand, everyone I've ever climbed with tells me to breathe, relax, I'm doing great... probably because I'm always shaking and looking like I'm about to peel off, on every single move.

baldclimber · · Ottawa, Ontario, Canada · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0
DLDeville wrote:

Spooky! Wow, I gotta say, the vocal support from the [photographer]? during the send is top notch! Wish I had that voice calmly telling me how every move I do is great, not to forget to breathe, just try my best, etc.... 

That's his wife, bad-ass French climber Caroline Ciavaldini

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an... · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 0

6kn is that kinda borderline peace of pro. I have had brass and 00 cams rated 6kn, hold with no damage, break the rock and fail, or have the wire or cam lobes fail.  Strange as 8kn, is what  i start to think of as bomber. 

6kn is what 1800lbf?  

Scott Polk · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 0
Rob Warden...Space Lizard wrote:

6kn is that kinda borderline peace of pro. I have had brass and 00 cams rated 6kn, hold with no damage, break the rock and fail, or have the wire or cam lobes fail.  Strange as 8kn, is what  i start to think of as bomber. 

6kn is what 1800lbf?  

Good point. After some searching on the forums I found this one discussing lead falls and the forces generated. https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/106103477/force-generated-in-a-lead-fall  

They talk about 5Kn on your top piece with only 10ft fall. He said the fall was "big" so guessing more than 10ft. I'll agree that 8kn starts the bomber rating for my climbing at least. But I'll still place those little "slow me down" pieces anytime if I want!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply