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Coxcomb - SW Chimney - Snow/Ice

Original Post
Nathan Hoobler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 55

We are hoping to head to Middle Cimarron Basin for a climb of Coxcomb of 4th of July weekend. We might throw in Heisshorn, El Punto, Redcliff, etc.

I’ve read copious beta (including on this site) on the standard SW Chimney route on Coxcomb when it’s dry. But I can find very little if it’s icy or snowy (which seems pretty possible this weekend). Has anyone climbed the chimney around this time of year? What gear did you use to protect the chimney? I was planning on taking a small collection of rock gear, ice screws, and probably ice ax and crampons.

But I’d love to know more about what we might find (and possibly leave some of that heavy stuff at home!).

Thanks in advance!


Grant Kleeves · · Ridgway, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 45

Friends climbed it a couple weeks ago, no snow-ice on the climb, it faces southwest  and is a solar oven, not much snow stays there...

 probably still a decent amount of snow on the approach and as of last week the road still wasn't plowed from the pass, expect 3-4 hours for the approach, potentially quite a bit more from the Silverjack side as I'm not sure where that one is cleared to.

Nathan Hoobler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 55

Thanks, Grant! We climbed the right chimney on July 3. There was a tiny bit of ice in the very back of the chimney, but no big deal. Also, no snow at all on the road or the approach to the Middle Fork basin. There was some snow to cross or avoid getting up to the pass near Coxcomb, but no big deal with ice axes.

Great peak! Thanks for the info! 

Jesse Jakomait · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 0

Thanks for sharing the info on Coxcomb.  Its on my long list of things to do if I get burnt out on shoving my feet into too tight of shoes!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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