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Gear mods


Troy . · · Elkview, WV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0
Fritz Nuffer wrote:

Not my doing, but a mechanical engineering friend jigsawed this bomber 8.5" cam. It's so big, you can place a #4 between the lobes.

He made that cam?? that's awesome!

Tim Meehan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 285

I like my Petzl harness, but the limp rear gear loops drove me crazy. So I used a 6-inch section of heavy electrical wire, some electrical tape, and the ice screw slots to firm it up. Way better now.
Drew Nevius · · Oklahoma · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 1,698

For those of you using the grigri tether, I found that by making a small loop at the end of the tether just barely big enough to form a clove hitch and slip onto the biner, I don’t have to worry about the tether cord coming off and my biner becomes crossroad proof since the grigri can’t slide past the hitched cord and around onto the spine of the biner. It can’t go the other way because the gate’s locking mechanism is too large as well

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 250
Jared Chrysostom · · Charleston, SC · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 5
Mark Berenblum wrote:

Genius! I'm doing this immediately. I'm embarrassed to have spent so many nights fighting runaway pillows without ever thinking of this. Thank you.

Another option is to stretch an extra shirt over the top of the pad, and stuff the pillow inside. Works well if you have the right shirt.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 210
extra gear loop sewn onto harness. 
Curt Haire · · leavenworth, wa · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 1

I sew gear loops on the shoulder straps of all my packs.  I make pickets out of 2" angle aluminum stock from Home Depot (why spend more?).  when the soles of my rigid alpine boots wear down at the toes, I replace the front 1.5" of sole with stealth C4.  I remove the sling from every cam whose stem will accept a carabiner to make them less of a cluster to rack (I always end up adding a quickdraw anyway, so why the sling!?!).   I make nut/v-thread tool from $2 screwdriver from Home Depot (why spend more?)  I use cloth grocery bag for rope bag.  I designed and constructed tiny dome tent for use on a 1981 ascent of the Cassin Ridge - used same tent on South Face of Aconcagua 1989.    I thread hi-vis poly yarn through sheath at middle of rope - makes unmistakeable golf-ball-sized day-glo middle-mark  (soft yarn feeds through belay/rappel-brake no problem).  I use chunks of dead garden/air hose for pick-covers on ice tools.  I replace worn-out rand on supergator with piece from old inner-tube (hard to find these days...)

adeadhead · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 92
Caleb Schwarz wrote: Resurrecting one of my favorite threads.

My inflatable pillow always seemed to skid out from under my head as I slept, so I rigged this with tenacious tape and shock cord to keep it in place.
(Weighs a hair over 13g if anybody cares)

love love love this.

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 181

I just put my shoes underneith the pad (toes pointed towards the bottom of the pad), which works to make the pad the pillow itself. Also answers the question, "where the f- are my shoes?"

Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0
Curt Haire wrote:I make pickets out of 2" angle aluminum stock from Home Depot (why spend more?). 
That 2” angle from HD may look like a picket but probably isnt 1/2 as strong as the real thing. Alloys and manufacturing treatments make a huge difference in aluminum strength and costs. “Why spend more”? Because funerals are friggin expensive. ☠️
Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 181

I've used pickets made from PVC. I think the snow is going to let loose or the picket is going to pop out before a picket is going to break. For those two reasons, they kinda feel like mental aid anyways. 

Chris Blatchley · · Somerville, MA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 5

i dremeled my petzl caritool evos to fit inside the clipper slots on my harness because i like the larger size of the evos (and i already had them) but didn't like having to put them somewhere else on the harness. now they fit in with a nice snap and they can hold a bunch of screws and a tool

Matt Wetmore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 45
Curt Haire wrote: I remove the sling from every cam whose stem will accept a carabiner to make them less of a cluster to rack (I always end up adding a quickdraw anyway, so why the sling!?!).  

https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/qc-labreslinging-camalots-and-c3s.html


Removing the sling on some BD cams lowers their strength 
Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0
Long Ranger wrote: I've used pickets made from PVC. I think the snow is going to let loose or the picket is going to pop out before a picket is going to break. For those two reasons, they kinda feel like mental aid anyways. 

The fact is, a properly placed picket can and has held very high loads in real life situations. 

Mark Berenblum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 105
Greg R wrote:

The fact is, a properly placed picket can and has held very high loads in real life situations. 

Yes. Also a fact: DIY pickets have been around for a long time and there's some evidence they hold. There are a few interesting white papers on modes of failure for snow pickets that convinced me that material strength is not the issue when pickets fail.

Mark Berenblum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 105
Matt Wetmore wrote:

https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/qc-labreslinging-camalots-and-c3s.html


Removing the sling on some BD cams lowers their strength 

Matt, I think what that article shows is that the design of the factory sling impacts the failure mode and strength of the protection when clipped to the factory sling. I don't think it shows that clipping the factory sling is stronger than a draw to the thumb loop (which is what I think Craig is saying he does), but please correct me if I'm wrong as that would be a surprising conclusion.

William P · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0
Mark Berenblum wrote:

Matt, I think what that article shows is that the design of the factory sling impacts the failure mode and strength of the protection when clipped to the factory sling. I don't think it shows that clipping the factory sling is stronger than a draw to the thumb loop (which is what I think Craig is saying he does), but please correct me if I'm wrong as that would be a surprising conclusion.

The conclusion is that when they switched from a steel thumb loop to a cable thumb loop, the sling they were using was pinched by the cable and cut at 10kN instead of the desired 14kN. That's why they "determined that having the double layer of webbing was substantial enough to get us the strength we were after, didn't cut the webbing and produced less tweakability (engineering term) of the thumb loop."

I think that removing the sling and using a carabiner as the connection to the thumb loop would result in the thumb loop getting tweaked after falls. In their testing, the sling broke before the thumb loop. I wouldn't say that clipping the thumb loop with a carabiner is any less strong than clipping the factory sling, but I would bet that it damages the thumb loop significantly more and results in a shorter lifespan of the thumbloop therefore cam.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 507
Mark Berenblum wrote:

Matt, I think what that article shows is that the design of the factory sling impacts the failure mode and strength of the protection when clipped to the factory sling. I don't think it shows that clipping the factory sling is stronger than a draw to the thumb loop (which is what I think Craig is saying he does), but please correct me if I'm wrong as that would be a surprising conclusion.

That article doesn't show it but yes clipping the thumb loop is weaker by 2kN. Look at the instruction manual that comes with the cam. 


It's probably because it forces the cable to bend at a tighter radius because the sling is wider than a biner. IMO it doesn't really matter because 99% of the time the cam is going to rip out of the placement before the cable breaks, but you decide for yourself. 
Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0
Mark Berenblum wrote:

Yes. Also a fact: DIY pickets have been around for a long time and there's some evidence they hold. There are a few interesting white papers on modes of failure for snow pickets that convinced me that material strength is not the issue when pickets fail.

Good to know, because the pvc that the Long Ranger suggested costs only a buck or two compared to dropping $20-30 on a picket. Any links to the white papers showing comparative tests on manufactured vs DIY pickets.  Thanks

Caleb Schwarz · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 125
Caleb Schwarz wrote:My inflatable pillow always seemed to skid out from under my head as I slept, so I rigged this with tenacious tape and shock cord to keep it in place.
(Weighs a hair over 13g if anybody cares)

Update for anyone who wanted to do this:

The tenacious tape doesn't stick for very long on the fabric of the pillow (because it's not a ripstop nylon) so I seam-gripped it and it's bombproof now.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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