The "there should be a northeastern ice-climbing stoke thread," thread.


Original Post
Rob Blakemore · · Boston, MA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Well the days are getting shorter now...post some stoke? 

Or I could pretend I like the summer I guess. 

Emmett Lyman · · Somerville, MA · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 35

I could go for a little ice right about now. Or at least a little bit of cold.

HBTHREE · · ma · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

Anybody scene the dyke lately? 

chris_vultaggio · · The Gunks · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 390

Jon Po · · Mahwah, NJ · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 100

Super stoked for snowboarding!! And next rock season!

Rob Blakemore · · Boston, MA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Wow, Chris what is that last one?

I heard the dike is building, not quite "IN"

Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,361
Rob Blakemore wrote:

I heard the dike is building, not quite "IN"

With all the warm and wet weather lately I'm sure the rock is getting a bit delaminated.

Christopher Woodall · · Somerville, MA · Joined May 2015 · Points: 13

I think if we have enough relentless optimism about the weather conditions there might be ice this weekend. The top outs might be a little manky though... You might want to bring some rock pro, maybe rock shoes and ditch the axes, but it'll be there.

Russ Keane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 90

+1 to this thread!!!  Awesome pics, Rob and Chris both.   Last one's gotta be Dropline.

Bryan Gilmore · · New England · Joined Nov 2005 · Points: 870

This is pathetic! And, I love ice climbing... but, for every good pitch of ice in the North East there are probably a dozen classic rock pitches. Now, stop talking about ice climbing and go do Sliding Board or the Whitney Gilman, or if you actually know how to rock climb; Recompense. That way you can say you've done the best of Cathedral's three great "R" routes. And, while you're at it go climb Diedre while it's ice free. For you ice lovers, here's a parting shot of my friends following the final pitch of Diedre a few months ago!

Fredrik Ehne · · Stockholm, Sweden · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0
Bryan Gilmore wrote:

This is pathetic! And, I love ice climbing... but, for every good pitch of ice in the North East there are probably a dozen classic rock pitches. Now, stop talking about ice climbing and go do Sliding Board or the Whitney Gilman, or if you actually know how to rock climb; Recompense. That way you can say you've done the best of Cathedral's three great "R" routes. And, while you're at it go climb Diedre while it's ice free. For you ice lovers, here's a parting shot of my friends following the final pitch of Diedre a few months ago!

Thanks for the route recommendations, been thinking about doing some drytooling to prepare for ice season  

Christopher Woodall · · Somerville, MA · Joined May 2015 · Points: 13
Bryan Gilmore wrote:

This is pathetic! And, I love ice climbing... but, for every good pitch of ice in the North East there are probably a dozen classic rock pitches. Now, stop talking about ice climbing and go do Sliding Board or the Whitney Gilman, or if you actually know how to rock climb; Recompense. That way you can say you've done the best of Cathedral's three great "R" routes. And, while you're at it go climb Diedre while it's ice free. For you ice lovers, here's a parting shot of my friends following the final pitch of Diedre a few months ago!

Recompense is certainly on my tick list this season! 

Bryan Gilmore · · New England · Joined Nov 2005 · Points: 870
Fredrik Ehne wrote:

Thanks for the route recommendations, been thinking about doing some drytooling to prepare for ice season  

I'd love to hear the trip-report from your dry-tool ascent of Sliding Board! 

Rob Blakemore · · Boston, MA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Heya Brian,

Fair point, I'd post about rock-climbing, trouble is I'm terrible at it (to be fair I'm shit at ice climbing too). I'd be psyched if somebody started a NE Rock-Climbing Stoke thread, I just don't have any pictures, unless you want to do "Best Belay Ledges on crowded Northeastern Moderates" or "TR Butt-Shots Anonymous" 

But actually, everybody gets mad if you post about skiing or climbing in-season because you're blowing up "the stash," so the only logical time to post about it is mid-August. Besides, I think there's a little room for some even absurdly out of season ice-climbing stoke amid all the "What tricam should I use to protect my spot at the Gunks AAC campground?" type of posts.

Re: Sliding Board. The ice was out at Whitehorse last weekend.  Maybe still some in the solution pockets? We looked everywhere. I look forward to the trip report.

Now where were we.  Here's the view from my first ice (snow) lead this last winter! And only 87 years after the first ascent. 

Fredrik Ehne · · Stockholm, Sweden · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0
Bryan Gilmore wrote:

I'd love to hear the trip-report from your dry-tool ascent of Sliding Board! 

Looking at pictures it looks a bit slabby but don't worry, I'll bring a drill.

Alissa Doherty · · Boston, MA · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 75

Lovely photos as always, Rob. But I'm not convinced. My thoughts on ice climbing right now:

My thoughts on rock climbing right now:

Zac St. Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,013

Following this of course. 

chris_vultaggio · · The Gunks · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 390
Rob Blakemore wrote:

Wow, Chris what is that last one?

I heard the dike is building, not quite "IN"

That's Lucho on Smear - cold perspective to hang and shoot that one but it's worth the numb legs....

Stoked for ice but enjoying some cold temps and long granite routes in the upper reaches of Norway, basking in 24-hr sunlight. This place has monster ice potential - has to be insane in the winter month. Huge cascades and couliors everywhere. 

Russ Keane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 90
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 1,865
Russ Keane wrote:

This is Smear??   https://cdn-uploads.mountainproject.com/forum/10621.jpg

Sure looks like it.

Emmett Lyman · · Somerville, MA · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 35

Catskill's Smear, not Frankenstein's.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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