Will there ever be a decent bouldering guidebook for Los Angeles?


Original Post
V0Hero · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 2,262

As the title states. I've heard rumors of one being in the works for over two years. During the last year there was a verbal reassurance that Stoney Point was the last section that needed to get done. Now no one knows anything (apparently) and there is still no guidebook worth it's salt for the vast amounts of good bouldering in the hills around there. Anyone have any info? 

jay2718 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

Southern California Bouldering Guide by Craig Fry was always pretty decent. Of course, the newest areas and access info is not in it, and the roads at Jtree were revamped after it was published, but there are many areas, plenty to keep you busy. Certainly, Stony Point is not all that different now as when it was published.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

V0 ....   One is in the works...  I know the people working on it. 

GB making is not easy. 

V0Hero · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 2,262
Guy Keesee wrote:

GB making is not easy. 

No kidding. Shouldn't talk about it as if it's finished though, gets the peoples hopes up (not aimed at you, Guy). That's how the situation was described to me a year ago by someone in the know. Comparing the Fry guide to any climbing guidebook made after 2000 (excluding the stoney point guidebook) is apples to oranges. Not even in the same league. The hand drawn topos are often wrong, there have been incredible amounts of development since then, the camera was invented, etc. 

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

"The hand drawn topos are often wrong, there have been incredible amounts of development since then, the camera was invented, etc."


I know the effort that the people are putting in....  they are trying to do every problem-- with locals in tow, just to get it right. So im knott surprised that you heard about it a year ago because they are not being secretive at all about the project. 

IMHO... just because you can take pictures now, doesn't really add to the quality of a guide. Heck, the Urban Rock Stoney guide.... I don't even recognize some of "the problems" listed and I have been doing those for 40 years, and look at the Shuteye guide... tons of great eye candy with all the cool color shots but the guide is almost worthless as a guide for getting one to the areas because of the sloppy work describing the maze of dirt roads and the inaccurate "times" used to tell one how far to go.  (I like mileage better) 

So just have some patience....a good guide takes lots of time to get right. 







Mike Womack · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,297

I've also heard from a couple sources that a very inclusive bouldering guide is in the works.  Anybody have any word on a sport climbing in SM updated guide?  The Louie Anderson one is 14 years old now.

V0Hero · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 2,262

^ and started with some severe inaccuracies (at least for the stuff I went and used it for). Weird how one of the top climbing destinations in the USA is completely void of a modern book and seemingly will be for the foreseeable future. Don't bring up that luke-warm "Best Climbs in LA" book that falcon pushed out in the last few years, thing was a tourists guide. 

Mike Womack · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,297

luke-warm at best.  I've actually recently considered writing an updated SM climbing guide.  I grew up in agoura and have been climbing all throughout the SMs since '08 or so.  

V0Hero · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 2,262

Grew up in TO, started well after you but I think we have a similar appreciation for the Santa Monicas. I wrote a hand-written guide to the (shitty) bouldering in the Conejo Valley that I am sure you could get your hands on if you wanted to. There is a lot of potential up by Mystery Science Theater still. Thanks for the work you've done expanding on the bouldering, MW. 

Mike Womack · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,297

Oh ya! The bouldering in the SMs is a hidden gem - especially purple stones and tunnels.  There's probably over 100 more routes to add on MP, too.  But thanks for the appreciation!  

I've only climbed at the conejo mtn. once a long time ago.  Potential for sport or boulder? Is the writer of the SM bouldering guide aware of your contributions?  

V0Hero · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 2,262

I don't think so. I ended up giving a few copies to friends and then chucking the rest. It was supplemental to the stuff I already put onto the web on this site, so the info isn't lost per say. I asked a few people at Stoney (who might be involved with the new guidebook) if they wanted to test out the guide/topo and they refused based on the fact that "there isn't any climbing over there." Bummed me out that they wouldn't even look, especially when it's the same rock as Malibu Creek, and double-especially for all the amazing afternoons my friends and I had all alone cleaning off boulders and hiking to find new ones. Potential for mainly boulder problems though there is a lot of rock within eyesight of edison rd. that looks tall. 

Mike Womack · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,297

harsh... From what I remember, the rock quality is sub-par, but who cares cause climbing is fun.  I'll take one if you still have a copy!  I've moved to Sherman oaks from agoura a few months ago so it adds to the drive, but once it cools down, I'd be down to check the area out.

V0Hero · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 2,262

I'll see if I can get ahold of my buddies who still live down there and see if they can get you a copy. Is your email on this website your current one? 

Mike Womack · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,297

Yeah, I believe so.  Thanks

BigNobody · · all over, mostly Utah · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 10
V0Hero wrote:

No kidding. Shouldn't talk about it as if it's finished though, gets the peoples hopes up (not aimed at you, Guy). That's how the situation was described to me a year ago by someone in the know. Comparing the Fry guide to any climbing guidebook made after 2000 (excluding the stoney point guidebook) is apples to oranges. Not even in the same league. The hand drawn topos are often wrong, there have been incredible amounts of development since then, the camera was invented, etc. 

Typical "gimme" generational Bullshit. You want it now damnit! 

Get over yourself, somebody is putting in some hard work you'll get to benefit from later.

V0Hero · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 2,262
BigNobody wrote:

Typical "gimme" generational Bullshit. You want it now damnit! 

Get over yourself, somebody is putting in some hard work you'll get to benefit from later.

Typical old fart, chiming in because his/her word is law and those young whippersnappers blah blah blah. They've been talking up their guidebook as almost done for a year and a half plus. Surely you've heard the old addage "if you don't have anything nice to say..." What compelled you to write such an insulting post in an otherwise constructive thread? Cue the standard "you don't know me" defense, but you aren't wrong. We come from different generations, sure, but I think to be so abrasive is uncalled for. I think you also rage-skimmed past the post where I mention I hand-drew a guide for my friends and I....

BigNobody · · all over, mostly Utah · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 10
V0Hero wrote:

Typical old fart, chiming in because his/her word is law and those young whippersnappers blah blah blah. Surely you've heard the old addage "if you don't have anything nice to say..." What compelled you to write such an insulting post in an otherwise constructive thread? 

No son, I am pointing out that your generation wants everything and they wanted it yesterday. Your tone comes off as irritated that someone who has been putting many hours in, on a labor of love no less, isn't doing it fast enough for you. My point, maybe ask around for some beta. I am sorry if my keyboard words hurt your tender feelers. Surely there is a safe place you can go to while to type your response.

V0Hero · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 2,262
BigNobody wrote:

No son, I am pointing out that your generation wants everything and they wanted it yesterday. Your tone comes off as irritated that someone who has been putting many hours in, on a labor of love no less, isn't doing it fast enough for you. My point, maybe ask around for some beta. I am sorry if my keyboard words hurt your tender feelers. Surely there is a safe place you can go to while to type your response.

Do I know you? This is a bizarre response and is derailing the thread. If you wanna start a "someone pissed in my wheaties" thread you can go do that in the Utah section?  Smoke a bit too much this morning, my guy? 

Mike Brady · · Van Diesel, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 681
BigNobody wrote:

No son, I am pointing out that your generation wants everything and they wanted it yesterday. Your tone comes off as irritated that someone who has been putting many hours in, on a labor of love no less, isn't doing it fast enough for you. My point, maybe ask around for some beta. I am sorry if my keyboard words hurt your tender feelers. Surely there is a safe place you can go to while to type your response.

You sir are being an A hole. 

It is pretty much a time honored tradition to lament upon the lack of a guide and to complain about how log it takes to complete one. It has nothing to do with what generation someone is from. Your generation brought about one of the worst economics crises the US has seen all in the name of expansion and waiting object wealth rapidly.......oh wait so did the generation before you.

BigNobody · · all over, mostly Utah · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 10
V0Hero wrote:

Do I know you? This is a bizarre response and is derailing the thread. If you wanna start a "someone pissed in my wheaties" thread you can go do that in the Utah section?  Smoke a bit too much this morning, my guy? 

Yes you do. I'm the old guy who stole your project and your girlfriend. She tells some pretty embarrassing stories about you.  And I've been up for hours kid, that ganja ain't legal here in Utah, so I'll leave the smoking to you and yer brahs, bro.

NEWS FLASH! I climb in California from time to time to. 

BigNobody · · all over, mostly Utah · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 10
Mike Brady wrote:

You sir are being an A hole. 

Yup, I am. Now, get off my lawn.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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