Jay, VT area climbing


Original Post
Mark P. · · Cambridge, MA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 91

MP hive-mind,

I'll be in Jay, VT in July, and am looking to get on some sweet trad routes. MP shows the nearest areas are near Lake Willoughby or Black Mountain. Is there anything closer that just isn't listed on MP? Ideally looking for 2-3 pitch 5.8 - 5.10 trad within 20-30 minutes of Jay Peak.

Thanks for the help!

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 1,875

How far is Jay from Poko and Potter/Silver Lake Mts?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

About 2+ hours to Poko. 

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 15

how far to Barton VT?

Nick Votto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 80

Definitely go to Wheeler and do the Great Corner, among others.....great granite there, it'll take 45 mins from Jay.   Otherwise you can get to Smuggs notch in an hour.  

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 15

anyone know what/ if there are bird closures? great corner was missing the 2nd pin ther last time I was up there.  It sported fixed micro mank instead. way better climb with the pin than without INMOP

Nick Votto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 80
Nick Goldsmith wrote:

anyone know what/ if there are bird closures? great corner was missing the 2nd pin ther last time I was up there.  It sported fixed micro mank instead. way better climb with the pin than without INMOP

Not sure about closures at Wheeler, not listed on Crag VT but that doesn't mean there aren't falcons there.....https://cragvt.org/ 

Regarding the pin yeah, it's been a while since I've been on there but it would be great if that was replaced

afemery · · Lebanon, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 179

Surprised nobody mentioned Smugs or Upper Bolton.  They are about 1 to 1 1/2 hours south, but a nice ride.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 15

the guys who have it TR wired declared the pin not nessicary.  it climbed much better when it was 2 pins and a bolt in that section. last time I was up there it was fixed micro mank that is hard to inspect so you pretty much have to back it up with micro gear that is damn hard to see when placeing so you put more of it in. I had 6 pieces in the same section that would have been 3 clips and much more exciteing climbing with the fixed LA in place. .   when I suggested replaceing the pin with a bolt  I was actually told to sack up and wire the gear on top rope whater ever the F that means........ way braver of a lead to  walk up to it and  lead it with 3 clips and the possibility of big air.  Now its just annoying and tedious micro gear wankery. still worth doing for shure but not as fun and spicy as it was with the 3 clips....

losbill · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 115

Go to Wheeler you won't be disappointed.  

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0
afemery wrote:

Surprised nobody mentioned Smugs or Upper Bolton.  They are about 1 to 1 1/2 hours south, but a nice ride.

Maybe because the OP said "20-30 minutes"?

David Powers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 267

The scar left from the pin is now one of the better nut placements on the route. I am glad it has not been replaced, probably safer without it.  It would be foolish to trust any of those pins without a prior inspection. Many times that pin has come out in my hand. The route can be protected well if you take the time to place the gear. I don't even find micro wires necessary. 

I have not seen any fixed wires on the route for some time. 

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 15

glad that its not filled with mank.  still think it was way more fun to clip and go for it.   Its more of a redpoint rout now with sussing the gear the main factor.  lot of folks took the monster whip on that pin. 

DRusso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 230

Mark, you should talk to David Powers who replied in this thread. He is a VT slab master and has established many routes in Northern VT.

afemery · · Lebanon, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 179
Marc801 C wrote:

Maybe because the OP said "20-30 minutes"?

Wheeler is about an hour ... go figure.

David Powers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 267

As far as I know, Wheeler Mt or Smugglers Notch is the closest climbing to Jay. Both have what you are looking for. Another half hour of driving will get you to Bolton, Marshfield or even Lac Lyster in Quebec.  

The guidebook Tough Schist will have all the info you need for VT climbing. 

Steve Posner · · Richmond, Vermont · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0
Nick Goldsmith wrote:

anyone know what/ if there are bird closures? great corner was missing the 2nd pin ther last time I was up there.  It sported fixed micro mank instead. way better climb with the pin than without INMOP

Another place to check for closures to protect falcons is http://www.vtfishandwildlife.com/cms/One.aspx?portalId=73163&pageId=83203  -- currently ok to climb at Wheeler

Owen McAndrew · · NY/VT · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Wheeler sounds like what you're looking for. Not much there is listed on mp but there are 100 or so routes in tough Schist the vt guidebook

june m · · elmore ,vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 13

I believe that a low ball fits  well in that  pin scar on the great  corner.  

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 15

Its a good #4 BD stopper placement would not recomend a lowball as it may be permanant fixed if you fall on it......

dave. thanx for replaceing the old bolts on VJ's. the cliff was seeping fairly agressivly yesterday and the new bolt was much appreciated.   had the place to ourselfs except for an annoying drone....... seemed to be flying from the summit???

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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