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South Platte: Devil's Head Beta


Original Post
Jeff Dlugosz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

I am heading out to Devil's Head for a few days in about a week. I''m looking for any beta I may be missing for the area like approaches, route finding, and camping. I've downloaded the area on MP and Rakkup for route info and stuff, but I don't want to go in solely dependent on iPhone Apps. Any advice on areas to hit/avoid would be appreciated. We onsight stuff up to 11b in the Red River Gorge. Mainly looking at sport because I don't want to check a bag just to bring my rack. Thanks in advance.

Derek Lawrence · · Bailey · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 470

The best camping is south of the radio towers along Rampart Range Road (past the turn off to the Fire Tower parking). Less scooter noise at these sites...   It has been busy down there lately so getting a site on Friday evening could be problematic (you didnt mention what days you were going).  If you want to hit Devils Gate  (you should!) the spot you park off of Jackson Creek Road is also a designated campsite.  Must go to areas IMO would include Devils Gate, Crimpfest, and Crag Ranch.     

Todd Bruns · · Golden , Colorado · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

I second Devils gate. Left my draws on a climb up there I plan on returning to shortly. Feel free to use them ;). Just don't take them please. Also be prepaired for a steep 45 min approach. 

Jeff Dlugosz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks for the tips. I'll be there Saturday through Monday. Are helmets pretty standard there or what? I know I should be wearing one regardless, but is there any loose rock?

Derek Lawrence · · Bailey · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 470

The rock is generally not loose.  Occasional crystal size rocks can come down.  I almost never wear a helmet but that is personal choice.

Finding a campsite saturday might be the crux.  There are also sites along jackson creek past the DG parking/camping, and further south on rampart range rd past the jackson creek turn.  

Daniel Rickert · · Dallas, TX · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 190

I am planning on being out this way for 4th of July weekend for the first time. The raptor closures do not affect the climbing right? 

I will be getting in Friday evening so I am also worried about the camping situation. Any good back-up plans if we can't find a site?

Any recommendations for 5.7-5.10a/b trad routes? Thanks!

Wes F · · DENVER, COLORADO · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 35

If your looking for trad, you should check out turkey rocks. Plenty of dispersed camping along the forest service road.

Daniel Rickert · · Dallas, TX · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 190

I thought Turkey Rocks was closed for Raptors?

David Wilk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

If you're looking for trad routes at Devil's Head, check out Radio head tower.  There are mixed routes as well as trad which are stellar and well worth the effort to get on.  I was just there yesterday and jumped on a handful of trad, mixed and sport climbs all stacked next to each other.  Nobody has talked about the approaches yet, it is easy to get turned around and lose the trail in Devils head if its your first time heading to any wall.  Pay close attention to the cairn markers, which can be deceiving at times.  Having a trail map out does help some.

the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 110

And often the cairns are spread about willy-nilly, and broken. I'm not local, but have spent at least 10 days at the head over the years, and have climbed on only 3 walls. Whenever we try something new, we spend half the day bushwacking and wondering around. The area is definitely complex. 

Finally, Hole In The Wall has some fantastic 11s that never see the sun for this time of year.  It is also one of the easier crags to find. 

Wes F · · DENVER, COLORADO · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 35

No raptor closures at turkey rocks that I'm aware of. Plus you will be in close proximity to thunder ridge and sheeps nose.  Devils head is worth checking out, amazing rock and the climbers are more spread out (less crowds) . I Believe the only raptor closures at devils head are devils head rock and recovery wall. 

Kev V · · The mitten · Joined May 2013 · Points: 10
Jeff Dlugosz wrote:

Thanks for the tips. I'll be there Saturday through Monday. Are helmets pretty standard there or what? I know I should be wearing one regardless, but is there any loose rock?

Generally, no.  Devil's Gate is a newer sector, though, and I pulled a solid chunk off Hell's Heartbreaker near the top a couple years ago.  

Daniel Rickert · · Dallas, TX · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 190

Thanks for all the replies. Really appreciate the beta!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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