vesper peak / morningstar conditions


Original Post
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,045

curious to see if anybody has been up there lately and can provide an update on snow conditions, temps, etc.  from the tick lists it looks like a couple folks have probably been up there in the last month or so.  thanks!

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 483

Curious to see any first hand posts. 

Since Vesper is the north face and we had a late snow year I'm certain the traverse in will be all steeper snow. First pitch of true grit was damp when I did it exactly a year ago, I'd expect more of the same.

Morning star faces south and east though, I'm sure it's clear at the base of the route. Take the P5 lead.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,045

for some reason i had it in my head that vesper faced more west (no idea why i thought that...) so i was hoping to do vesper and morningstar.  the more i have been looking into it, it seems like vesper could have a lot of snow on it.  combine that with the current chilly temps and my general wussiness, i might have to come up with a plan b....

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 483

Yeah my pics on the true grit page were all taken on the end of June last year. I was happy to have mountaineering boots and not just runners that day. 

Mile high club is well worth getting on though and a good medium length day outing. Get on it before the crowds make a rappelling nightmare! 

TaylorLutz · · Seattle · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 65

having climbed southern exposed rock at washington pass two weeks ago, i'm more than sure morning star is good to go. vesper will probably need some time.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,045

cool, thanks taylor.  much appreciated.

marmots · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 25

Anyone have recent beta on Vesper?  Specifically looking for a snow report on the approach ledge system to access the north face climbs.  Thanks!

Kyle Elliott · · Everett, WA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 375

highly doubt there is any snow, it's getting pretty dry in the mountains. 

Josh Schmale · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 15

I was up there one week ago today. You can avoid essentially all of the snow, just a few low angle patches near the col where you cross onto the north side ledges. We brought crampons and axes and never used them. Here's a pic of the route as of a week ago.

marmots · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 25

Great.  Thanks for the photo, Josh!

Curt Veldhuisen · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 425

How much extra walking from the road closure?

Eric Thompson · · Mountlake Terrace wa · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 125
Curtveld wrote:

How much extra walking from the road closure?

None, we drove past the road closed sign and parked at the trail head. You really don't need ax or crampons any more this year.  This makes a great link up to mile high club.  Videos from last week on my youtube...have fun all, please be safe on rappel. 

https://www.youtube.com/user/freesolo

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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