Rope abrasion, when to replace, etc.


Original Post
Matthew Jacobsen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

Hey all, 

Did some TR climbing today on a 7 mm cordolette anchor, and noticed that there were a few spots that showed abrasion afterward. Not through the sheath, but definitely enough to notice. I think it may have been friction from rubbing against the mat that I used on the edge. 

While I historically I have used the general principle of "if you have to ask, you should probably replace it", I am curious about any other guidelines on when things are clearly in need of replacing. 

I've attached a picture for reference. I welcome all input. Thanks! 

Tristan Bradford · · Oklahoma City, OK · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 393

Less the core is showing you're totally fine. Just inspect it every time if you suspect its getting rubbed a lot.

r m · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Looks good to me!

And since it's a top rope anchor with a cordelette, you'll be rigging it so the failure of any single strand is safe, right? :)

a.blair · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 15

What rm said! Dat SERENE

ViperScale · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 165
Tristan Bradford wrote:

Less the core is showing you're totally fine. Just inspect it every time if you suspect its getting rubbed a lot.

Any type of cord you are looking for 2 major things. Is the core showing and when you fold it over in the picture is it flat. Given all ropes will fold over differently so it is good to check it out when you first get the rope and use that as a baseline for checking it later. You don't want to wait for it to go completely flat but over time it will soften and fold over a little more before it is bad.

Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,240

If your rope looks like this guy

you probably won't die

But if you see his white guts 

you could fall on your butts!

Matthew Jacobsen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks for the info all. Very helpful indeed!

dave custer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 770
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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