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Easy/Moderate Sport Multi-Pitch w/Walk-Off in Colorado?


Original Post
Christopher Needham · · The Woodlands · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Any route recommendations?  Ledges at pitch transitions are a +.  

(TMI: learned multi-pitch from a guide, but still like the idea of this criteria for my first go at it alone w/my wife, if possible.)

Daniel Joder · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Not sure if 5.9+ qualifies as easy-moderate for you, but The Young and The Rackless is a pretty cool multi-pitch and you can scramble, up and around and then down a gully back to your packs. In fact, if it is windy, the walk-off might be preferable to throwing ropes for the rappels. It is pretty well-bolted with bolts at all the cruxes. Bolted belays with decent ledges/stances. (I believe we combined P1 and P2 when we did it.) Check for raptor closure (I think it has been lifted for this year, but check anyway).

Christopher Needham · · The Woodlands · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Daniel, great suggestion.  5.9+ would be a tad higher than I would hope for, it is a great suggestion. I'm def more concerned with coming down than going up!Thanks! 

John Duston · · Colorado · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 15
Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/fractured-fairytales/106911087 Fractured Fairytales is bolted, with a walk-off descent, but I wouldn't call it "sport". The bolting is very runout, and you'd want at least a couple of nuts to sling hanger-less bolt studs.

There are a couple of easy sport multi routes at Other Critters in CCC, and one across the road at Cats & Dogs, but they have a rappel descent.

There are some easy multi routes in Staunton State Park (closed for raptor nesting until Aug 1), with walk-off descents, but they are trad.

Jamie Collins · · Vail, CO · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 218

Royal Flush on Mt Royal outside of Frisco. It's 5.9 bolted with the budding multipitch leader in mind, so all belays are bolted and the walk-off is the most popular hiking trail in Summit County.

aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 294
Jamie Collins wrote:

Royal Flush on Mt Royal outside of Frisco. It's 5.8 bolted with the 5.8 leader in mind, so all belays are bolted and the walk-off is the most popular hiking trail in Summit County. 

I think most would agree that 5.8/5.9 is generous for this climb; even the 5.10 variation feels closer to 5.8. 

I'm gonna have to disagree with that. Obviously I'm pretty weak, but I think calling it 5.8 would be a sandbag. Majority of the pitches are very easy, but the two pitches on the headwall were pretty solid for the grade I thought. In fact, I've always thought moving off the Yosemite Ledge on the last 5.8 pitch was the crux of the whole route. The moves were harder than I expected for 5.8, and you face a nasty ledge fall if you blow it.

Someone hurt themselves on this route not too long ago. Don't let this scare you away, but just be solid at the grade. If 5.9 is your max, this is not a route to be taking whippers on.

http://www.summitdaily.com/news/crime/injured-climber-rescued-off-friscos-mount-royal-after-10-hour-mission/

Jon Banks · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 145

Check out Don't Rock My Boat (5.7) at Tiers of Zion in Golden. It's only two pitches, but a good place to practice your skills. Huge ledge in the middle.

Fractured Fairytales and Playin' Hooky are good options as well. Most people rap playin hooky, but you can walk off if you want, supposedly. Yellow Dog Dingo in Clear Creek might be a good one too - I've only done the first pitch and it was crazy easy.

Christopher Needham · · The Woodlands · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Thanks all!  Great recommendations, I really appreciate it.  :)

Daniel Joder · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Just in case... on Don't Rock My Boat, take a .75 (Sage Green) BD cam with a shoulder-length runner to place in a small vertical slot on P2 between the 2nd and 3rd bolts (on the top of the slab, below the bulge). This will make it way less scary if you happen to be a newer leader.

Jamie Collins · · Vail, CO · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 218
aikibujin wrote:

I'm gonna have to disagree with that. Obviously I'm pretty weak, but I think calling it 5.8 would be a sandbag. Majority of the pitches are very easy, but the two pitches on the headwall were pretty solid for the grade I thought. In fact, I've always thought moving off the Yosemite Ledge on the last 5.8 pitch was the crux of the whole route. The moves were harder than I expected for 5.8, and you face a nasty ledge fall if you blow it.

Someone hurt themselves on this route not too long ago. Don't let this scare you away, but just be solid at the grade. If 5.9 is your max, this is not a route to be taking whippers on.

Maybe. I climbed it again yesterday and today thinkingI missed something, but I stand by my statement. I agree that the moving off the Yosemite ledge is the crux; it's a ways up to that first bolt on some very slick rock. It's definitely not a sport climb and the bolts are certainly spaced out. The white rib pitch comes to mind -- a 30ish meter pitch with a total of 3 bolts, all in the first fifteen meters. There's legitimate ground fall potential by the time you get up to the anchors. 

I guess what I meant is that it's bolted with the budding multipitch climber in mind: 

-Lots of short pitches, so you can always stay visual/verbal with your belayer

-Sizeable belay platforms at pretty much all sets of anchors

-If you have to, you can rap with a single 60m rope at (almost) anytime

-Unless you're linking lots of pitches, the bolts are placed so as to minimize rope drag

-Routefinding is pretty simple

Dirk Diggler · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 225

Tonnere Tower in Boulder Canyon has some good stuff 

Alan Prehmus · · littleton, co · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 627

In Clear Creek Canyon, 

  Other Critters - Tortoise Scute S 5.6  & Yellow Dog Dingo S 5.6  are 3 & 4 pitches with generous bolts.  The first 8 feet of the walk off are exposed but on a ledge.

  Creek Side - Black Gold S 5.7 & the ever popular Playin' Hooky S 5.8  share a walk-off.  From Playin' Hooky, its a move over or around a boulder to get to unexposed walking.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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