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Gumby Trad Routes


Original Post
Adam Schmidt SLC · · SLC,UT · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 30

Trying to break into trad climbing. Trying to get a sense of best routes along the front to start building my #skillz and huevos. 

I've been using the Falcon guide to build a hit list for the summer. What should I add? What should I avoid?

Ferguson Canyon:
- Otherworld
- Garden of Gordon
- Holy Grail
- F/7
- Celestial Ascension
Big Cottonwood Canyon:
- Red Argyle
- Master of the Obvious
- Babies on the Beach
- Nice Little Crack
- Layback Crack
- Epic Wall
- The Flake
Little Cottonwood:
- Lisa Falls Right
- Neurotica
- Fat Man's Misery
- The Waltz
- Five Fingers

I've got a set of nuts, hexes, and C4's in 0.4-2, with a #4 and an extra 0.5

And yes, I know I'm gonna die.

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 465

So have you climbed at all?  It wasn't clear.  I'll add some that are 5.6 or less. 


Big Cottonwood Canyon:
- Red Argyle---KINDA INTERESTING, SHORT
- Masters of the Obvious---GOOD
- Buddha Babies on the Beach---MEH
- Nice Little Crack---GOOD
- Layback Crack---GOOD
- Epic Wall---AVOID
- The Flake---GOOD

- Little Creatures

- Itchy Scratchy (multi pitch=MP)

-Steorts Ridge (MP) 

-Jigs Up (MP)

-Use to be Bushy 


Little Cottonwood:
- Lisa Falls Right---GOOD
- Neurotica---GOOD
- Fat Man's Misery---MEH
- The Waltz---AVOID
- Five Fingers---AVOID

-Short Corner

-Part Time Crack 

-School Room (MP) 

Of the routes above, the hardest/most mental are likely Steorts Ridge, Jigs Up, and Schoolroom but they are classic starter routes none the less.  The last pitch of Itchy Scratchy is a very soft 5.7, but you can elect to skip it when you get there (although you'd be missing the whole reason you are there). 

tenesmus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 2,190

Also, do the multi-pitch routes on the Super Slab in the mouth of the canyon. Better to do on a not-so-hot day but its always breezy over there. Plenty of super low angle pitches.

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 20

I think School Room in LCC (mentioned above) is a pretty great beginner trad route. You can bail from it after the 2nd (or 3rd, depending on how you climb it) or 4th pitch, or keep going for all 5 (p5 is fun). Only thing that can be kind of hard for a 5.6 climber is the offwidth on P4, but it's low angle, safe and not too bad. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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