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First time at City of Rocks- logistical tips?

Original Post
Mark Straub · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 25

I'll be heading to City of Rocks for a few days beginning this coming Sunday.  I'll be travelling alone, so I'm hoping to meet some people to climb with in the area.  How easy is this relative to meeting people in other major climbing areas? (Yosemite, Indian Creek, etc.) Is there some kind of a central area where people meet, or a partner board in the park?

Also, I noticed that there are many campgrounds, both inside and outside of the park.  What would you recommend for somebody travelling solo?

Nick Brennan · · Concord, NH · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 110

There is a board at Bath Rock, but its not really used for finding partners.  Camping in the park is pretty dispersed and its actually kind of hard to meet people to climb with.  Most people arrive with a group.  Your best bet is to go hang out near classics at your grade and look for odd-number groups or go to the hotspring pool in Almo and talk to climbers in the evening.  I have been out of that area for almost a year, and I've heard with Castle opening up more novice climbers are frequenting the area (and they tend to need/want people to rope gun).  Too Much Fun seems to be a pretty good spot to meet up with a group because its an easy over-bolted climb that needs two ropes to get off.

Wilburn · · Cheyenne, WY · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 350

Since you're solo I would recommend camping on BLM land. The fees for the established sites are around $12. There are some established free sites on BLM land just south of town. Drive south past Almo and hang a right on the rocky dirt road immediately after the cattle guard. The area is pretty dispersed, but just look for odd numbered groups and use the partner board. 

C. Seaton · · SLC, UT · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

I'd also swing by the Rock Shop in the afternoon, you may be able to find some partners there if you offer up to buy them beer &/or pizza! 

Allen Sanderson · · Oootah · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,145

At the City if you go to Elephant, Bath, or Parking Lot Rocks as well as the Decadent Wall you will find people who may be with a group but will probably let you join in. Just watch being lowered some routes require 70m rope or a very attentive belayer and climber. During the weekend camping sites are well booked up, during the week not so much. They cost money, camping on the BLM managed land is free but ya gotta commute to the crag.

Mark Straub · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 25

Thanks for the advice.  I may swing by tonight and see if I can snag a partner for tomorrow, although the weather doesn't look ideal in the next couple of days.  I'm heading to Santa Fe- are there any areas, perhaps in Utah or SW Colorado, that might be easier to meet people to climb with?  I'll be passing directly through Salt Lake City and Moab, but Indian Creek looks too hot right now.

Nick Brennan · · Concord, NH · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 110

Moab is a really easy spot to meet other climbers. St. George is also a good spot, theres almost always someone dirtbagging in the chuckwalla parking lot.  In SLC it would be easy to find someone on Mtproj -- theres just so many people. 

BrianWS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 790

Not to contradict local beta, which is probably better than what I have to offer, but I was able to meet some good folks while camping within the park. It's probably more of a crapshoot driving down to the nearby store/pizza joint/hangout, but we had some good laughs and routes as a result. 

Maple canyon is also nice if you're partner less in the salt lake area.

Rob Shoop · · tucson · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 0

I am looking for a climbing partner. I live near SLC and have a free couch or and love city of rocks if your still looking.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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