Northeastern Climbers. I need Beta!


Original Post
Jackson Wright · · Chapel Hill, NC · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Hey all, I will be doing a long term climbing trip that will eventually end up in the shawangunks but my current issue is that my last climbing stop before then is Seneca, which then puts my drive to around 7+ hours and a little bit more that I would like. My question to you is, what areas are in the general direction to the gunks from seneca that are quality and have some moderates (5.6-5.10) sport or easy trad (5.5-5.7) and is there anyone out there who need a partner in those areas? Thanks for the looks even if you don't have beta and doubly thanks for replies.

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 650

Delaware Water Gap.

JSH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 960

Frankly, I'd just hammer out the drive.

There are two sport climbing areas that are sort of on the way, with moderate routes.  Safe Harbor is on the southern border of PA.  It's on the bank of a river so it's an absolute sunbowl -- if it's sunny and above 70, you'd be fried.  Birdsboro Quarry is in the east-middle of PA.  I've only climbed a day at each of them, and, well, they're decent local spots, but really I'd just spend a day doing the drive.

Brandon S · · Weehawken, NJ · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 3

There really arent any great destination areas between Seneca and the Gunks.  If its a long term trip and you have time, I'd tack on stops at NRG down south and NH or Daks up north.  In between, Ohiopyle looks pretty cool but Ive never been there. Birdsboro and Safe Harbor are local crags and not worth losing a day of climbing elsewhere.  

But for the 5.5-5.7 trad range you are looking for, you cant do much better than the gunks. Enjoy.

shoo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 75
Jackson Wright wrote:

Hey all, I will be doing a long term climbing trip that will eventually end up in the shawangunks but my current issue is that my last climbing stop before then is Seneca, which then puts my drive to around 7+ hours and a little bit more that I would like. My question to you is, what areas are in the general direction to the gunks from seneca that are quality and have some moderates (5.6-5.10) sport or easy trad (5.5-5.7) and is there anyone out there who need a partner in those areas? Thanks for the looks even if you don't have beta and doubly thanks for replies.

Keep driving to the Gunks. You'll be happy you did.

clare Angelora · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 30

I did this exact drive between Seneca and Gunks in april. You're better off just skipping Birdsboro and Safe Harbor - I've been to both, you're not missing anything. The rock quality is awful, crumbly, and dirty from the nearby trains. 

Theres a few local craft brewery spots in WV that could be worth a stop. or go to Baltimore for fresh crab! 

Andrew G · · Silver Spring, MD · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 298

I haven't been to Safe Harbor, but Ohiopyle and Birdsboro are both good if you're a local and need to get out on some real rock, but not worth stopping for. So one more vote for banging out the drive. If you really want to break it up though, Cooper's Rock is a worthy stop for bouldering. Sounds like you're primarily a roped climber, like myself, but I needed to break up the drive home from the NRG and stopped at Coopers and had way more fun than I expected.

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5

If you really can't face the drive in one shot, I'd suggest climbing in the morning at Seneca, drive halfway in the afternoon, camp, finish the drive in the morning, and get an afternoon of climbing in at the Gunks. Same amount of climbing and driving but broken up a bit. But if it were me I'd just finish the drive and get there. 

Adam Gellman · · Jersey City · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 130

I agree, just make the drive as there is no worthwhile climbing in  that direction. I might recommend stopping at the Delaware water gap to stretch your legs but may be better to do a quick hike rather than the mediocre climbing there. If you do choose to climb at the gap it will make you appreciate the Gunks even more.

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

As mentioned by at least one other person, depending on the route that you are driving, a stop at Coopers Rock is a good way to break up the drive. The park is immediately off of I-68 a few miles northeast of Morgantown,W. VA, shortly before the Maryland border. A  short approach from the parking takes you to extensive bouldering and a decent top-roping wall of very good sandstone--a close cousin to English gritstone. I have stopped there several times for a few hours of climbing en route between New England and points further south. I'm guessing that it is 3-4 hours from Seneca to Coopers and maybe 7-8 hours from there to the Gunks. I've also stopped at Safe Harbor, which is pleasant (for a 'road-cut') but more out of the way.

Jackson Wright · · Chapel Hill, NC · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0
Andrew G wrote:

I haven't been to Safe Harbor, but Ohiopyle and Birdsboro are both good if you're a local and need to get out on some real rock, but not worth stopping for. So one more vote for banging out the drive. If you really want to break it up though, Cooper's Rock is a worthy stop for bouldering. Sounds like you're primarily a roped climber, like myself, but I needed to break up the drive home from the NRG and stopped at Coopers and had way more fun than I expected.

I actually primarily boulder haha. But this trip is for me to get experience as a rope climber and to explore the south so maybe coopers would be good!

John Gehrig · · Easton, PA · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 20

You should at the very least drive through the Delaware Water Gap!

Climbing-wise "The Gap" can be a bit much for new climbers, routes can get quite loose and grungy. It's a different experience from the Gunks, no crowds and more route-finding.
 
If you're into bouldering, PA has some great diabase boulders. There's Governor Stable and Haycock, both are worth a short detour.

Enjoy the roadtrip!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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