Tumble Down Dick Mt. - Climbing (Bouldering) Area near Sunday River, ME


Original Post
Ken Graf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

Going up to Sunday River area (Bethel, ME) in a few weeks and I am looking for somewhere to mess around. I am the only belay capable person between two families with young kids, so I'm thinking this would be a largely boulder-centric adventure. 

Closet place I could find is Tumble Down Dick Mt. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/tumble-down-dick-mt/106476324

Says it has "some boulders" and some crags but doesn't get into any details on the boulders part. Has anyone been there and is there some low-key family bouldering to be had?


Gilman Coryell · · Mount Vernon, Maine · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50

Not a large variety of boulders. There is one large boulder with lots of options that is maybe 10' to 15' in height. It has some old bolts on top sans hangers. You can always byo hangers to set up a tr for the small ones. Can't be sure but they are probably 1/4 inch.

Ken Graf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

May be a winner for the kiddos, thanks   

When you say there are bolts with no hangers, are you talking a closed loop? Or are you talking about JUST a bolt? I'm having trouble envisioning how I would get a BYO hanger on a existing bolt. If it's a couple closed loops I can easily build an anchor.


Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 12,061

Was there several years ago. Don't know about the boulders. Most of the climbs are short and in the 5.9-10 range, maybe not the best for "families".  We weren't TR-ing so I forget how easy/hard to set up TR's.  It does stay damp as most climbs are in the trees, and can have more bugs than average. 

Couple of other suggestions: Moses Slab - easy slab, but you might need 2 ropes to TR.  On Rt 2 between Bethel and Gorham, NH. Not climbed much, very easy except maybe the top 15 ft. 

In Pinkham notch: Square Ledge, about 130 ft high so you need 2 ropes to TR, except if you set an intermediate anchor. Several nice 5.4 to 5.6's. Fantastic views from the top, which is reached by a hiking trail. Probably 35 min drive and 15 min hike from Bethel.  Very popular on weekends. 

Mt Forest in Berlin, NH.  About the same 35 min but 5 min walk.  Dbl bolt anchors on most of the 1st pitches.  If TR-ing, please let anyone leading entire climb,  "climb through".  Several of Pitch 1's are 5.6 - 5.7, usually less than 100ft long. 

Bring plenty of bug dope. Bugs are worse than past years. 



Gilman Coryell · · Mount Vernon, Maine · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50
Ken Graf wrote:

 I'm having trouble envisioning how I would get a BYO hanger on a existing bolt. If it's a couple closed loops I can easily build an anchor.


These are bolts that have had their nut and hanger removed so that it is just a threaded bolt sticking out of the rock. You would need hangers and nuts. There are other options there for TR. As you walk in on the climbers trail from the pull off you will first come to an amphitheater of sorts with some moderate climbing, 5.4/6ish, and options for TR setup. 

dave custer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 770

Maybe a scramble up Tumbledown Mountain near Weld (Fat Man's Misery "trail," https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tumbledown_Mountain)? Maybe a scramble through Mahoosuc Notch (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mahoosuc_Notch)? Neither is technical climbing; both offer opportunities for pawing rock and are stellar hikes and places. Tumbledown Mountain has the AMC route, a moderate multipitch outing: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/amc-route/106505313 Maybe Angel Falls and poke around the cliffs across the valley? A bit of a haul, but fun: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/108248359

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 12,061

Ken,

  While Dave Custer's suggestions are OK, especially for a hiking alternative; don't confuse Tumbledown Dick with Tumbledown Mtn; the later is, I think, a bit of a drive from Bethel. 

Ken Graf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks all!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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