Paklenica, Croatia, July 2017


Original Post
michael bentov · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Hi,

I am going to be in Paklenica Croatia between 10th July to 23rd July. I'll be happy to do some longer sport routes. I plann to camp at the Paklicica camping ground but I am also open for other accomodation options.

I climb 6B french grade system (sport), and 6A (trad). 

I weigh 75 kg, have been climbing for 10 years now in Italy, Norway, Jordan and Israel.

Send me an email to: bentovmichael@gmail.com

Anouk Erni · · Portland, OR · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 95

Hi Michael,

I will be in Croatia from July 9th-15th and maybe longer.  I will be staying in Hvar but will have a car so I can travel.  I will have my climbing rack and rope with me and am hoping to do some climbing while over there.  If interested, PM me.  

michael bentov · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Hi,

Sounds great. I'll be camping at Paklenica camping ground from the 10th. Are you interested in trad climbing? I was planning to do some longer sport routes and perhaps easier trad routes as well.

Where do you plan on staying while in paklenica?

Michael

Anouk Erni · · Portland, OR · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 95

I would definitely be interested in trad climbing.  I will have a light trad rack with me but if we do longer routes it wouldn't be enough.  Looking at my itinerary and where Paklenica is, I am thinking that I will probably travel there on the 15th and stay until the 17th.  I haven't figured out where to stay while there, but since I'm driving I can probably just sleep in my car since I won't have camping gear.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 13,702
Anouk Erni wrote:

I would definitely be interested in trad climbing.  I will have a light trad rack with me but if we do longer routes it wouldn't be enough.  Looking at my itinerary and where Paklenica is, I am thinking that I will probably travel there on the 15th and stay until the 17th.  I haven't figured out where to stay while there, but since I'm driving I can probably just sleep in my car since I won't have camping gear.

There's a fair amount of lodging available in the area, although, it's gonna be the hot summer season.  17 to 27C in July on average methinks.  

Also, note that "wild camping" is illegal.

 Camping outside the motor camps referred to in paragraph 1 of this Article and areas designated for camping outside motor camps pursuant to paragraph 3 of this Article is prohibited.

http://www.mint.hr/UserDocsImages/150921_ZUD_hospitalityandcatering.pdf

What I'd probably do if I wanted to wild camp, but, be semi legal, is negotiate a spot with a landowner for a few nights.

Anouk Erni · · Portland, OR · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 95

Thanks for the head's up.  Then I might look into booking a place for a couple nights nearby.  AirBnB has some reasonable places.  

It will be hot around that time for sure.  Do you know what the rock is like over there?  Do you have any guidebooks or info?  I can't seem to find much.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 13,702

The rock is pretty much all limestone (at least at the popular crags).  Good rock for sports climbing.

Guidebooks:

http://www.paklenica-croatia.com/

http://www.climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/Paklenica-Rock-climbing-Guidebook.html

I ordered mine from the above website.  Easy peasy.

We booked all of our lodging on AirBnB (first time for me).  Worked out great.

Rained when we were at Hvar, but, there's gobs of climbing there.

http://www.hvarclimbing.com/

http://www.cliffbase.com/

Cheers!

michael bentov · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Hi anouk,

I am already here in paklenic. Right now I am staying at vinko apartment. I have a set of rocks and a set of cams. Do you have quickdraws and a rope?

Michael

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

As you likely already know since you are currently there, is that the most significant 'wall' in the park is on Anica Kuk, which primarily faces north so is going to be in the shade, and therefore hopefully climbable, for much of the day. On many of the routes on that face, even the ones listed as 'sport climbs', a light rack is a good idea, as the bolts tend to be quite far apart. I didn't do any 'full on' trad climbs there, but I think the gear you have is perfectly adequate for most of the classic routes. The sport climbs, which are located near the entrance to the gorge (the "klanci" area) are located on both sides of the road, so you should be able t chase the shade. It is worth noting that the grading there is considered by many visitors to be quite 'stiff' compared to many other European areas. I'd advise starting off on routes a few grades below what you usually climb until you have a sense of the local standards. Enjoy.

Anouk Erni · · Portland, OR · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 95

Hi Michael. I'm sorry but I won't be able to join you climbing. I have been climbing for 4 days and just got to Croatia. I didn't bring my climbing gear because I just won't have time to drive to the ppaces you mentioned. I hope you find a partner to climb in these great places!

liveit P · · Mammoth Lakes, Ca · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 330

Just got back from Croatia/Paklenica. It was pretty hot, but nice in the shade/mornings/evenings. Just wanted to add that if you need the climbing guide they sell it in the gift store at the park (5 minutes up from the parking.)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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