Gravity scale for climbing grades ?


Original Post
Serge Smirnov · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 160

Is there any rule of thumb like 1 letter grade difference equivalent to a 10% change in gravity ?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Serge Smirnov wrote:

Is there any rule of thumb like 1 letter grade difference equivalent to a 10% change in gravity ?

No.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

For high grades (starting around 8a/5.13b) there is an adequate enough "grip strength to climbing grade" scale (+5% of body weight both crimp and slopper strength equals to +1 plus on French scale).

Pil Jungli · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 60

Does gravity change at high altitude or is it just when you get too high? 1 letter for the latter. 

ViperScale · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 230

Generally the higher you are the thinner the oxygen which means it will feel harder to climb.

So a 5.7 at sea level will feel like a 5.9 at like 14k ft above sea level (at least until you get your body used to the altitude)

Gravity on the other hand doesn't change enough for you to notice a difference.

Kirtis Courkamp · · Golden · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 384

Gravity anomaly map for Colorado .... Explains allot  

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5

You're thinking of cheeseburgers. A few weeks of one cheeseburger a day equates to 5% gravity increase, 2 cheeseburgers a day = 10%, and so on. 

When I want gravity to feel more intense I subscribe to the lesser known but highly effective hot fudge sundae program. 

Pil Jungli · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 60

 a 5.7 at sea level will feel like a 5.9 at like 14k ft above sea level (at least until you get your body used to the altitude)

It's so true we used to say an extra 1 or 2 grades especially for stamina events at around 13-14k even if you are used to it.  

Sometimes gravity changes too getting a bit floaty and sometimes 'pulling sideways'... 

However we can compensate for these small things with perfect conditions and blessings from lord Shiva.

ViperScale · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 230

Normally when I get down I just put on some scuba gear and do some underwater climbing. That way I can control gravity by increasing / decreasing the air in my vest / weight I am wearing.

mediocre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0
Pil Jungli wrote:

However we can compensate for these small things with perfect conditions and blessings from lord Shiva.

A-men brother

John Barritt · · OKC · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1,053

So on the moon 5.14 is really 5.5.......from now on I'm only climbing in low gravity zones. I predict sport climbers will be doing helium enemas next............ ;)

Aweffwef Fewfae · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

actually, yes. that's exactly it - 10% body weight for each v grade.

v5 = 50% body weight

v7 = 70%

v13 = 130%

convert to rope similarly. 

Serge Smirnov · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 160

A reddit user pointed me (indirectly) to https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/112244952/are-your-fingers-strong-enough, which references https://cdn-files.apstatic.com/climb/112249688_medium_1494328613.jpg.  It's not quite what I was asking for - a harder climber likely has advantages besides finger strength - but it's close.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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