Cams


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Kevin Kelley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

Does anyone have any opinions on trango cams?  Are they good or not?  All my friends use BD around here. 

ClimbingOn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0

If you buy them you will likely regret it. They are inferior to the "big" brands. Buy BD for your primary cams (.5 - 4), then supplement with others such as totems, aliens, etc.

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 438
Kevin Kelley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

Cool thanks. Anyone heard about the ball nuts or the stoppers being any good?

Luc-514 · · Montreal, Quebec · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 8,438

Sometimes ballnutz are the only pieces that will fit tiny crack.

They might be ok for the perfect thin crack but they're useless 90% of the time, they're very picky on the direction of pull.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 136
Kevin Kelley wrote:

Cool thanks. Anyone heard about the ball nuts or the stoppers being any good?

I can't speak for trango's ballnuts because I've used the original lowe/byrne but they are quite useful. They work on cracks thinner than the smallest micro cams fit and fit in much shallower cracks. It helps ALOT if you can find even the slightest constriction and slot them in there, but they will work on parallel cracks. You don't need them often, but when you need them, you're usually screwed without them. I take them on my rack with my RPs because they're so small and light that I'd rather just have them with me.

Brandon.Phillips · · Alabama · Joined May 2011 · Points: 0

I like the Trango ballnuts, though I have never fallen on one.  They are a pretty specific piece of gear, and a probably only necessary on PG13 - R rated routes.  Word on the street is that ballnuts will often become fixed after a fall.

Never used Trango nuts- I usually grab gear off my harness by color.  I've always wondered if the Trango ones would be more of a pain in the ass.  DMM Alloy offsets all the way!

Evan Deis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 102

Ballnutz are clutch.

Christopher Woodall · · Somerville, MA · Joined May 2015 · Points: 13

ballnutz can be good if you climb in an area with lots of manky piton's, sometimes you can get them in piton scars or next to a manky piton where nothing else would go.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 136
Brandon.Phillips wrote:

I like the Trango ballnuts, though I have never fallen on one.  They are a pretty specific piece of gear, and a probably only necessary on PG13 - R rated routes.  Word on the street is that ballnuts will often become fixed after a fall.

Never used Trango nuts- I usually grab gear off my harness by color.  I've always wondered if the Trango ones would be more of a pain in the ass.  DMM Alloy offsets all the way!

1) I've climbed many routes where ballnuts were not "necessary" but I was really happy that I had them, and wouldn't want to ever climb the route without them.

2) I've heard the "word on the street" that they become fixed after a fall as well. Perhaps that was other people's experience, or perhaps they just didn't know how to clean them, but I've fallen on one once, and while it was more difficult to get out than I would prefer, it was by no means fixed. However, this was on sandstone, and I would suspect that harder rock types may bight into the ball more rendering it fixed. 

Ryan Bowen · · Bend, Or · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 85
ClimbingOn wrote:

If you buy them you will likely regret it. They are inferior to the "big" brands. Buy BD for your primary cams (.5 - 4), then supplement with others such as totems, aliens, etc.

Why are they inferior?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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