Devils lake cracks


Original Post
CRAG-list-KILLA · · Wisconsin · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

Looking for good hand jam cracks can be up to arm jam size... next time out there wanna work on the jamming skills while leading. Thanks for the input 

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 50
Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 50

Just checked your tick list, looks like you've already climbed Brinton's... I'm interested to see what other responses you get. The Lake is my most frequent climbing destination, and I'm looking to develop my crack skills as well.

Boots Ylectric · · Chicago IL · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 25

While it's only a 5.4 due to the highly featured rock around it, the crack that runs the entire length of the Queen's Throne is a freaking blast if you climb it as a splitter.  Protects really well, and jams awesome with some size variations ranging from hand to full fist along the way.

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 50
Boots Ylectric wrote:

While it's only a 5.4 due to the highly featured rock around it, the crack that runs the entire length of the Queen's Throne is a freaking blast if you climb it as a splitter.  Protects really well, and jams awesome with some size variations ranging from hand to full fist along the way.

Climbed as a splitter, what would you say the grade is?

Mason Mueller · · Milwaukee, Wisconsin · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 419

Posted a month or so ago. 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

Highly recommend Old Sandstone, as you get a lot more continuous, true crack climbs.  American Beauty is nice, wide section is a bit tough especially with the corner though.  Curving Crack looks fantastic, though I didn't get a chance to get on it.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 10,970

I think mongo fury has some jamming...stuck knee as well....green slime...there's not much pure crack but a bunch of climbs with a few jams included.

Doug Hemken · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 5,243

Excellent list, Mason

Boots Ylectric · · Chicago IL · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 25
Andrew Krajnik wrote:

Climbed as a splitter, what would you say the grade is?

Good question. Maybe takes it up to a 6 or 7 if you truly commit to the crack only. I'm terrible at judging grade. 

Chris treggE · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2007 · Points: 8,590

What Ted said. Curving crack has a lot of crack for devils lake -- instead of a few crack moves it's one long crack. I hated it but it's what you asked for. 

James Schroeder · · Sauk County, WI · Joined May 2002 · Points: 2,552

Here's a link to the post in Mason's screenshot so you can use the links in it to click through.

CRAG-list-KILLA · · Wisconsin · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks guys especially James for the link was looking for the through old threads... can't wait to get back to the lake was down at the red last weekend and climbed American crack n few out jam climbs and loved every minute of it..

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

Then you'll love Old Sandstone.  Quartzite is a little weird to jam on, especially for hands.  I find it harder to get solid hand jams due to the lack of friction, especially this time of the year.

Mark Wenzel 1 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 35

Dippy Diagonal, and just around the corner, Hammer Crack. The latter's start is easy if you are good with hand jams.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

You are a horrible human being.

Fun fact: a molding of the start to Hammer Crack was actually used as a torture device in Guantanamo Bay.  Inmates were forced to repeatedly climb the start while listening to loud music but were forbidden from cruising the 5.6 section above.

Mark Wenzel 1 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 35

Coatamundi crack has some sinker hands, and then of course Sometimes, which again is pretty easy lead for the grade as you get sinker hands to plug gear in off of.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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