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Longs Peak Cirque snow climbs?


Original Post
Sara Campbell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 10

Hi!  I've been out of town and out of the loop!

Martha's/Dreamweaver/Notch/Flying Dutchman... What's looking good?  Hoping to do one this Friday.  Thanks!

Koy · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 55

Saw another post that Dreamweaver was in great shape as of last Saturday.  Not sure about the others.

butlerbt · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 60

All are in quite good condition. as is Alexanders and even DS and RC have some ice in place. 

cmj Jenkins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 80

Hopping on the question train here, I'm moving to the area in about a month and was not expecting these routes to still be in. How late can one climb alpine ice in RMNP?

Sara Campbell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 10

Thanks all.  I'm no expert but July might be a good time for Kieners.  Just start early so Lamb's Slide rocks don't hit you in the face...

Sara Campbell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 10

Also I heard something about doing the Y couloir on Ypsilon kinda later cuz you wanna wait for the nasty cornice to go away?  I haven't done it myself though

Dan Miller 1 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

Just did dreamweaver this morning.  Easy conditions.  Bootpacked snow stairs with short steps of rock or ice.  Bottom three steps are rock, but super mellow.  Top two steps are ice and pretty low angle.  We didn't end up roping up, nor the team behind us.  

The descent down the loft was straight forward with no signs of snow instability.  The snow was soft when we started up around 6 am, but very soft by the time we came down the snow ramp around 9:30 am. 

Alexey Dynkin · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Also interested! Particularly FD. Sara Campbell - can you post how it goes on Friday? Cheers. AD

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 549

Any news on Dreamweaver or the cirque in general? 

TIA

Kyle Walter · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Climbed dreamweaver yesterday, very fun, a couple of small ice steps and a couple of dry chokes. 

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 549

Thanks Kyle!

How was the loft? A post on 14ers.com made it sound fairly sketch, which seems unlikely. 

Kyle Walter · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

That's the descent route? 

Didn't need a rope to go up or down, there was a short downclimb on wet rocks between snowpatches, with a plethora of rappel anchors on the true left.

Alexey Dynkin · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Did you happen to get a look at TFD, by any chance?

Kyle Walter · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

I'm not from around here, these acronyms are lost on me.

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 549

TIA- thanks in advance

TFD- I think that's the Flying Dutchman, one of the other couloirs near DW.

Kyle, do you need a partner for Monday? I could get out early for part of the day. Would prefer shady sport, but you could try to twist my arm.

Kyle Walter · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Sara Campbell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 10

My partner didn't feel well and we had to bail pretty early on, so I gots no beta for you sorry!

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 549

@ Alexy- here's the best shot I could get of TFD. 

DW was soft but fun today.

Thanks to both parties ahead of us for their care in knocking down as little ice as possible. 

A weekday ascent would be safer!

Anyone been on the Notch?

Mounir Fizari · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 130

Climbed the notch Saturday. Almost no ice, mostly slushy snow. Hard steps kicked in the entire route. The staircase is wet in several places

Alexey Dynkin · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Thanks all for the info. Unfortunately, for a variety of reason we also didn't end up going...did a last-minute traverse of the Sawtooth on Bierstadt instead. Glad people got a chance to get out and take advantage of the good conditions!

AD

Jamie Princo · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 85

has anyone been on broadway in the last few days? how much snow is up there? thanks

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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