where do you sport climb North Cal in summer
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Hi Everyone, I just moved to the Bay and there are so many smaller crags and some larger ones within about 4 hours but I really can't figure out what is my best bet. I am looking for easy approach, sport only, hopefully with a high concentration of climbs. I climb in the 5.12 range Thanks!! David |
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Mickey's beach (just south of stinson) has a short approach with lots of hard sport climbs |
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While checking out NorCal crags, check out Auburn SRA (cave valley). It's about 2-2.5 hours away up I80. Limestone rock (old quarry), almost exclusively sport climbing. Routes start at 5.6 and go up to 5.12d. Over a dozen 11s and a half dozen 12s. It's all in one compact valley with a mile hike on service roads to get there. You could also head to the Emeralds and Bowman up toward (but before) Donner, where you'll find routes up to 5.13 |
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sorry man cant say i reckon |
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I'll second Eric's recommendations. auburn quarry can be a little crowded feeling for me. bowman ends up being quite the drive due to the road |
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Columns of the Giants, on Sonora Pass. Steep blocky volcanic rock, lots of 5.12s. Morning shade, and high(ish) altitude. |
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If proximity to SF and concentration of routes are top priorities then check out Mount St. Helena. It has the highest number of 5.11 and 5.12 sport routes and is <2h from SF unless you hit gnarly traffic. Very hot in the summer but the Bear wall gets shade in the afternoon (others too). The approach is a little more than a mile. It does suck hiking in the heat. Bring plenty of water. It's included in the Bay Area Rock guide. |
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Big chief when the gate opens. Star wall on donner summit is prime right now. |
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Tahoe has some sport climbing: Luther Rock, Space Invaders (Pie Shop area), Luther Spires, Mayhem Cove, Berkeley camp. New bolted routes at Pie Shop and new bolted routes at Castle Rock (Nevada) . . . There are also bolted routes at the trad areas like Echo Lake |